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34: something unexpected

2/9/2012

4 Comments

 
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Not much imagination went into naming 34, its address is 34 Grosvenor Square; such lack of creative facility does not bode well. And the address itself? Well, that too sends a message, for as one London guide says:

From its earliest days Grosvenor Square attracted residents of high social status, over half of whom, until well into the 20th century, were people of title. The square has never deteriorated socially.

Are commoners even allowed? Finally, as part of Caprice Holdings Ltd, a group that includes Scott's less than five minutes walk away where hedge fund managers being seen and being rich seemed to us on our visit there more important than the food served, are we simply in the wrong place to get a good meal?

Fortunately, the answer is no and the best part about 34 is indeed the food. We're pleased to say that 34 is much closer to the wonderful Le Caprice rather than Scott's, leaving us happy customers indeed.

As you will have already surmised by now, 34 is the kind of restaurant that takes bookings, is the kind of restaurant that has table cloths, is not the kind of restaurant that does sharing plates and is most certainly not the kind where the service staff have tattoos. Simply put, it's the opposite of everything currently trending in restaurant world right now, brave in itself. This alone however is not what endeared 34 to us.

What is also good about 34 (goodness that name nevertheless seems awkward each time I type it) is that it does not carry the airs and graces that you might expect of a Grosvenor Square restaurant. Unlike Scott's, a cover charge was not appended to our bill, the camera did not have staff lathering at the mouth for fear that 'celebrity diners' were being papp'ed, and staff did not appear to have, excuse the expression, a stick up their arse generally. It certainly made the whole experience more enjoyable.

We had heard that 34 was basically a steak restaurant but that is incorrect. Steaks are important for them, more of that shortly, but the menu covers a wider range and the website describes them as 'a meat, game and seafood restaurant'. 

Being a 'special' meal for us, we pushed the boat out a little also starting with caviar and a glass champagne, though here they forgot to bring us the champagne and needed a second prompt. One might even take this as endearing for in most other restaurants of this calibre, champagne on arrival is an automatic hard sell on arrival. Given the wine list here, the champagne and caviar combo work out at about the same cost as a middling bottle of Bordeaux, which we passed on, so let's call it even.

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dining room
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caviar
Starters are a little of what you expect and a few surprises. There's crab, scallops and shrimp, but there's also mixed sashimi, and fried courgette flower. There's a range of salads too, which we explored with a good old fashioned Caesar and a somewhat more innovative deep fried duck egg, spiced figs, crispy duck tongues salad. This latter dish we thought might pose a risk, we've had duck tongues before but served up by Simon Rogan which is a different matter entirely, what would they make of them here? Actually, they did well. The fried duck tongues bared more than a passing resemblance to pork scratchings though were less jaw breaking so overall pretty good, and the egg nicely delivered up its runny bounty in a crisp shell so again no complaints. The figs gave yet further texture but didn't do too much on flavour, but it's a good starter ahead of steak and I'd happily eat it again. 
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Caesar salad
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deep fried duck egg, spiced figs, crispy duck tongues
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money shot
One 'fat-boy' main and something more reserved also. Steak tartare was first rate, boldly seasoned, as everything here seems to be (something we welcome) but additional condiments are brought to the table in case you want a little more kick; that seems relatively thoughtful.

On steaks, there's a choice of Scottish beef, USDA, Australian wagyu or Argentinian, all aged 28 days, a focus on ribeye and sirloin though other cuts are also available. Prices run about a 10-20% premium to Goodman though not too much of a surprise there. Stated as cooked on an Argentinean parrilla, it was a very good steak, perfectly cooked, great char, good taste leaving me very satisfied with my choice. We were told that the kitchen were out of 'fries' and we agreed that 'chips' would be okay, and okay but nothing more is a good description as these seemed more like plump fries than thick cut chips; maybe their fries are extra skinny when available. 
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steak tartare
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Scottish bone in ribeye
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chips not fries
Desserts were a step up from the old English puds offered at the likes of Marco Pierre White's Steakhouse with plenty of interest. The Fleur de Sel chocolate bounty bombe, a chocolate sphere with coconut ice cream has literally hit a sweet spot with other reviewers but we opted for the Peanut butter crunch bar, a sophisticated Reese peanut butter cup with extras which was a better dessert than many a restaurant manages to offer. 

Even ice cream flavours offered something extra with Turkish Delight, Popcorn and Crème brulee amongst others changing up a gear from the norm.
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Peanut butter crunch bar
34? We still think they could do better on the name though maybe 34 was also how many seconds they took to think of it and considered that a serendipitous outcome. Prices, well, it's Grosvenor Square and the rent has to be paid. But the place overall offers something unexpected, that is, a more or less relaxed but professional environment with good food, and little complacency given their location. And open 7 days a week, all day, which is fabulous (getting a good meal even in central London on a Sunday is not as easy as it sounds), we would be more than happy to return.


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Related links

34 website


 
34 on Urbanspoon
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4 Comments
Serena
3/9/2012 03:44:49 am

I've been a couple of times to 34 now and really enjoyed it both times - the food is good and the service and atmosphere is just lovely. Nowhere near as stuffy as I'd imagined

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Jack
5/9/2012 03:08:42 am

Bemused by the availability of chips but not fries. Either they have potatoes in the kitchen or they don't? The generous view would be that it was a prepping issue, but it's still a bit lame unless I'm missing something. Did the catering van let them down that day? At those prices I'm concerned they could not offer fries when they could offer chips.

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thecriticalcouple
5/9/2012 04:13:43 am

Jack,

thank for the comment, we too had this debate in the restaurant. A bit odd for sure.

Reply
Kirky
5/9/2012 04:30:56 am

V good review and I totally echo sentiments. It's an enjoyable place to visit in some ways surprisingly so. Great pics also. You have provided a very thorough picture of the place. K

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