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Ackergill Tower: Scotland's best value castle?

17/10/2012

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We leave Inverlochy, head North East, and keep going, further and further until we run out of land, until we run out of country even. We're here though because it completes in part the expedition, from Lands End to John O Groats which is just 15 miles down the road. JOG itself, like Lands End, is a bit of a damp squib (sorry people of JOG) and given temperature variations, JOG and the surrounding area has a shorter tourist season than most of the UK I'd guess. Life for the trade seems tough and it's not an obvious place for a hospitality venture to set up a business.

But all that said, I found a gem, one that will even make you bank manager smile (with relief). Another day another castle it may seem but for my sole occupancy room here, with dinner and breakfast, it's just £120; this feels like a steal and in most respects it is. The castle is awesome, not grand on scale like Glenapp, but almost austere suiting the harsh terrain. A single tower looming large when viewed from the front, though go behind and it reveals a few more angles and almost smuggler like steps down to its own jetty. I love it already.
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we made it, Lands End to John O'Groats
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round the back
Until recently, Ackergill Tower was a private hire only castle, but more recently, given tougher economic times, they've opened up to the public as a regular hotel. It should be emphasised here that the choice of Ackergill reflected both where we wanted to be in Scotland (JOG) and the attractive rates they charge. Foodwise, it clearly hopes to deliver guests a good time but is not yet featured in guides and given where we have come from and where we have eaten, it would be unfair to be too harsh on them, especially at this price point, so we wont be.
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grand and ancient oil paintings hang throughout the castle
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I'm told the flags in the dining room are 300 years old
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our table awaits
Overall, food was good enough, with dinner an enjoyable occasion and the next day, our full Scottish breakfast setting us up perfectly for the journey ahead, but I'd note without criticism that Ackergill would need to step up a level to be a food destination, but that misses the point for it does not market itself as that, instead, Ackergill Tower is simply a wonderful overall Scottish hospitality experience, a small hotel with staff whose numbers you can count on one hand, but who all contribute to making your stay there as lovely as possible.
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Barrock smoked salmon, warm potato cakes & horseradish cream
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Pan fried Scrabster cod loin, mussel broth, clams and creamed potatoes
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Roasted corn fed chicken breast, potato dauphinoise, creamed cabbage and roasting juices
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Scottish cheeses
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Warm treacle tart, creme fraiche ice cream
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Wild berry macaroons, raspberry sorbet and mascarpone custard
Real log fires, waves crashing up against rocks outside the window, and the local liquor being Old Pulteney whisky from Wick, just a few miles down the road, what more could you ask for? Well, on our stay at Ackergill, Northern lights were on our wish list as the night before, there was one of the most impressive displays seen in the UK for some time. 

It was therefore with some excitement that one of the hotel staff, the star of the show of our stay, Martin, disturbed our after dinner drinks with news that the lights threatened a repeat performance. Sadly, the light display fell a long way short of the previous night and there was much cloud, but we didn't leave empty handed and what we saw is shown below.
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Northern Lights visible during our stay at Ackergill Tower
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since I'm out picturing the Lights, here's a snap of the Tower by night also
Most readers I'm sure will never find themselves in this part of the world, but if you do, visit Ackergill Tower, for it is a small hotel full of character run by people who care and want you to have a good time. It's a fraction of the cost of many of Scotland's other castles, but it is certainly not a fraction of the fun. We loved it.


Visit Ackergill Tower website

Previously I visited Inverlochy Castle

Next stop: The Albernach, Lochinver


Location map for Ackergill Tower
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