On the Monday before Christmas I expect restaurants to be quite well booked out but this seems a bit silly, there's not a table to be found anywhere it seems for my planned lunch (though the festive outcome is not that I ate in a manger I should add). I can understand that places like North Road and Gavin la Chapelle are fully booked but even old school restaurants like Smiths of Smithfield are fully booked a week in advance. I even try Gary's Rhodes 24 in The City but no joy there, we wonder what the world's coming to. An end?
Dispirited as a turkey in December that gets the whole Christmas thing, I call Arbutus and whoa, they have a free table. Now I'm torn. As Groucho famously didn't want to belong to any club that would have him as a member, so should I refuse to dine at any restaurant that still had an available table? What's wrong I ask? But of course I'm going to take the table, I have a friend to meet and am in mortal danger if my blood-alcohol level drops too low.
Tucked away at the top end of Frith Street in Soho, as I enter I remember that I've been there before but that's all I remember and it was a few years ago after all. Difficult to comment on the usual ambience as there's an office Xmas party or two taking place though they're pretty well behaved. But the place is comfortable, well spaced tables and it's a good place to meet a friend to catch up in a relaxed surrounding.
Our waiter too is excellent. He's knowledgeable about the food but even better, he's enthusiastic, he clearly believes in it and is happy to promote it; we feel encouraged. While there was a pause in service after the main course when we struggled to get anyone's attention to order dessert, that small hiccup aside, the service was exemplary.
The menu is a mix of old English, French and other European. On the starters, there's pig's head, country style terrine and smoked eel, quite St John like, as well as pork porchetta, ox tripe 'Spanish style' as well as an intriguing squid and mackerel burger. Equally, the mains entice with traditional bouillabaisse, cooked shoulder of venison and several more offerings embracing both fish and meat.
Dispirited as a turkey in December that gets the whole Christmas thing, I call Arbutus and whoa, they have a free table. Now I'm torn. As Groucho famously didn't want to belong to any club that would have him as a member, so should I refuse to dine at any restaurant that still had an available table? What's wrong I ask? But of course I'm going to take the table, I have a friend to meet and am in mortal danger if my blood-alcohol level drops too low.
Tucked away at the top end of Frith Street in Soho, as I enter I remember that I've been there before but that's all I remember and it was a few years ago after all. Difficult to comment on the usual ambience as there's an office Xmas party or two taking place though they're pretty well behaved. But the place is comfortable, well spaced tables and it's a good place to meet a friend to catch up in a relaxed surrounding.
Our waiter too is excellent. He's knowledgeable about the food but even better, he's enthusiastic, he clearly believes in it and is happy to promote it; we feel encouraged. While there was a pause in service after the main course when we struggled to get anyone's attention to order dessert, that small hiccup aside, the service was exemplary.
The menu is a mix of old English, French and other European. On the starters, there's pig's head, country style terrine and smoked eel, quite St John like, as well as pork porchetta, ox tripe 'Spanish style' as well as an intriguing squid and mackerel burger. Equally, the mains entice with traditional bouillabaisse, cooked shoulder of venison and several more offerings embracing both fish and meat.
pig's head, potato puree, ravioli of caramelised onions
slow cooked shoulder of veal bolognese, Parmesan, olive oil
For the starters we chose the pig's head, potato puree and ravioli of caramelised onions as well as the slow cooked shoulder of veal 'bolognese', Parmesan and olive oil. Both came in good portions and both delivered on taste. My dining companion, again not Mrs CC today but a friend with whom I was playing Xmas catch up reported that the pigs head was full of flavour, multiple textures and tastes and while a little briney, it hit the mark. The veal bolognese delivered a pasta dish that an authentic Italian would be pleased with and balanced the cheese, pasta and veal components nicely. Both starters were, in a word, satisfying.
cooked shoulder of venison, sweet potato puree, trompette mushrooms
roast rack of pork, onion marmalade, cavolo nero, soft polenta (not shown)
Main courses were the shoulder of venison, sweet potato puree and trompette mushrooms, and roast rack of pork, onion marmalade, cavolo nero (curly kale) and soft polenta. Meaty, hearty, satisfying? Mostly yes, but by the end of the dish (of pork), I was a little bored as the dish lacked the complexity to make me want to zealously clean the plate and mourn the idea of finishing. In fact, when I did finish, I was glad to do so and had there been more, I would have probably passed it up. In many respects, this seamed the story of the meal right here in the main course. It was good food, good ingredients all well cooked but it lacked a sparkle or a zing that lifted the meal to memorable. Happy to eat the food and happy to meet a friend there to catch up, but despite its Michelin star, it just didn't feel like a food destination that would draw you back on the food alone.
Now, to be fair, what the restaurant says on its website is that 'what we want to achieve is value for money and quality' and they do. But what they don't deliver in our view is a meal that transcends merely a good restaurant experience. One doesn't feel affronted that they have a Michelin star but if they didn't have one, nor would I be taking to the street to lobby for them. We've seen substantial quality amongst the one star brigade from the excellent (Martin Wishart) to the surprising (no names). Arbutus in our opinion sits fairly placed round about the middle, nothing overly fancy but quality with value as already noted.
Now, to be fair, what the restaurant says on its website is that 'what we want to achieve is value for money and quality' and they do. But what they don't deliver in our view is a meal that transcends merely a good restaurant experience. One doesn't feel affronted that they have a Michelin star but if they didn't have one, nor would I be taking to the street to lobby for them. We've seen substantial quality amongst the one star brigade from the excellent (Martin Wishart) to the surprising (no names). Arbutus in our opinion sits fairly placed round about the middle, nothing overly fancy but quality with value as already noted.
cold chocolate fondant, chocolate wafer, salted caramel ice cream
floating island, custard, pink pralines
Desserts were good, certainly better than average and my 'floating island' was an excellent end to the meal.
Overall then, for a location in or around Soho where you want to meet a friend to catch up over food without risk that the meal will let you down, this is a good place to go, good choice, good value and reliable. If you want a full on experience and food that will make you pause for thought and food that dominates the conversation, there's probably better alternatives.
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Overall then, for a location in or around Soho where you want to meet a friend to catch up over food without risk that the meal will let you down, this is a good place to go, good choice, good value and reliable. If you want a full on experience and food that will make you pause for thought and food that dominates the conversation, there's probably better alternatives.
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