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Coq d'Argent: Revisited and still first class

1/11/2011

11 Comments

 
Back in April this year we visited Coq d'Argent in the City and came away thoroughly impressed with the food we ate that day. Our full review can be read here. We believed that Head Chef Mickael Weiss was delivering up Michelin starred quality food to diners but because of its location and size, the restaurant had not got the attention it deserved. Others too however were beginning to take note and in June, Giles Coren reviewed Coq d'Argent for The Times and described the cooking as 'sublime'. 

This week we revisited the restaurant to find that the food continues to be first class. We might even suggest that standards have continued to inch forward during the year and our meal yesterday possibly surpassed the one we enjoyed back in April. 

Our menu for the day was as follows:

 - Seared hand dived scallops, coral aioli, light cauliflower puree and seaweed oil with pickled cauliflower, bacon and shallots

 - Foie gras and “pain d’epice” terrine on ginger bread flavoured melba toast with pickled pear slices, mulled wine jelly and a lemon syrup, hazelnut oil, ginger and black sesame seed dressing.

 - Steamed trout fillet topped with a soft almond crust on a bed of wilted baby spinach, toasted pumpkin seeds, sultanas, granny smith apple julienne salad with soft parsnip mash, red wine butter sauce and toasted almond brown butter.

 - Straw baked salt marsh lamb rump with fennel and courgette purée, coriander yoghurt and pomme fondant

 - selection of desserts (for a table of five): take on black forest gateau, blackberry mess, salted caramel and pear miroir with cocoa sorbet, frozen blackberry and violet parfait, and cheese. 

This was, start to finish, truly excellent. Interestingly, we said just two days ago in our review of Restaurant Sat Bains:

even where traditional 'top end' ingredients are used like scallop and duck liver parfait, Sat seeks to provide an original twist to the dish, something not always tried even amongst his two star contemporaries. 

And this is true of Mickael Weiss also. Layering through the foie gras with ginger bread was simply brilliant and one of the best manipulations of foie gras we've encountered. It is perhaps what has impressed us most about Mickael Weiss and what he's doing at Coq d'Argent, he never takes the easy and/or lazy option and he has a sufficient abundance of skill as a chef to carry off those more complex plates.

All the food we had yesterday was brilliant, all immaculately presented (remarkable given how many covers they do) and cooked to perfection. Coq d'Argent is probably the best food in The City right now in our opinion. 

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Seared hand dived scallops
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Foie gras and 'pain d'epice' terrine
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Steamed trout fillet with almond crust
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Rump of salt marsh lamb
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cheese plate
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Blackberry 'mess'
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salted caramel and pear miroir
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frozen blackberry and violet parfait (picture from prior visit)
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take on Black Forest gateaux


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Related links

Coq d'Argent website

Mickael Weiss website

Mickael Weiss on Twitter

Critical Couple review of Coq d'Argent (April 2011)



Picture
Coq D'Argent on Urbanspoon
11 Comments
Kavey link
1/11/2011 08:02:16 am

I've been up to the restaurant only once, to visit the bar and enjoy those stunning views of the city. A friend who works nearby took me there.

Once I'm working again, this is one of the restaurants on my wishlist, as I remember looking at the menu when I visited the bar, and thinking it looked interesting.

Your images are great, really give a good impression of the standards, and with your text, a feel for how the dishes come together.

Reply
David Nicoll
1/11/2011 11:12:34 am

As well as running a fabulous place to eat, Mickael is a genuinely nice chap who gives a lot to charity. His food is imaginative and beautifully done. I love his bouillabaisse.

Reply
Alan spedding ( cumbriafoodie) link
1/11/2011 12:08:31 pm

I would go to that restaurant just for the puds....The violet one looks amazing, same as your last visit , a stand out dish visually....and that gateaux should be hanging on a wall.

Reply
Karohemd link
2/11/2011 04:35:00 am

Sounds exciting, looks it even more.
Those desserts are true works of art. I'd find it hard to destroy them.

Reply
Andrew Stevenson link
2/11/2011 05:33:16 am

Gosh, that looks good.

The combination of foie gras and pain d'épices is one I like. Used to be Andreas Antona's signature at Simpson's in Kenilworth, then Birmingham.

Reply
Joyce Wang link
2/11/2011 06:15:08 am

All the desserts looked amazing!!!! I'd go for that alone!

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Paul
3/12/2011 02:50:47 am

We went last night for a birthday dinner, food, service and wine all fabulous. The coq au vin was superb, and served with a nice bit of theatre too. Definitely going back to try the rest of the menu!

Reply
gry
30/4/2012 02:23:08 pm

A friend and I went to coq d'argent tonight and were hugely disappointed. The starter of snails was too salty, my salmon blinis was okay but nothing special - much better blinis at Baltic. The Baked stone bass with fennel, courgette, tomato and saffron casserole was very dry and my colleague had a very mediocre honey and red wine glazed pork cheeks with truffle mash, buttered root vegetables and pig’s ears crisp. We shared a apple tart which looked beautiful but was too spicy of cinnamon. We went following your pictures and review above which unfortunately was very far from our experience this evening. I have had the same feedback from colleagues whom have been there and not been satisfied. It is a great place for a drink if the weather is good and you can sit outside, but I would rather walk south of the river to Zucca, Pizarro, or to some of the many lovely restaurants in Clerkenwell, Farringdon or Goodmans for a great steak in the city. I really wanted to like the place but my friend and I were both disappointed....

Reply
thecriticalcouple
30/4/2012 05:26:18 pm

we're sad that you did not enjoy the meal at CdA as much as we did.

Reply
gry
1/5/2012 12:06:07 am

i forgot to mention the most important which is that your blog rocks...looking from the pictures above, it seems as if you had an outstanding experience at CdA...and they might just have had a bad day...thank you for an amazing blog, keep the work up

thecriticalcouple
1/5/2012 02:47:28 am

gry,

thank you so much.

Reply



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