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Inverlochy Castle: luxury living, kitchen magic

17/10/2012

4 Comments

 
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Inverlochy Castle is one of the most luxurious hotels in Scotland and aims to provide guests the very finest experience during their stay. Landing at Inverness and need a car to the hotel? No problem, Inverlochy Castle has its own Rolls Royce Phantom that will waft you there in style. Powering rather than wafting, we were making our own tracks to Inverlochy through the highlands, stopping every now and then simply to take in the natural beauty, for you should never be in too much of a rush in Scotland. 

The castle itself dates back to 1863, and as you would expect, offers period elegance; Queen Victoria spent a week at Inverlochy Castle in 1873 and is reported to have said 'I never saw a lovelier or more romantic spot'. Nature has certainly done its bit here, for the castle is located just outside of Fort William in the Nevis Range mountains (home to Ben Nevis of course) and accordingly there are breathtaking views in every direction.

With the hotel and nature both pitching in, the restaurant must step up and do its share of the lifting, and it has for some time risen to this challenge gaining and holding on to through chef changes a Michelin star. Despite that accolade, the current head chef, Phil Carnegie, is not we think a name widely known, though perhaps it will be known more so in the future because what Phil and his team are cooking up at Inverlochy is absolutely superb.

A few other things to know however before jumping in to the food. First of all, the restaurant requires gentlemen to wear a jacket and tie, something seen at The Ritz in London but no other restaurant that I can immediately think of in the UK. Second, the wine list is, let's say 'expensive' and leave it at that. Third, service is excellent throughout our stay but star of the show that night was the sommelier, William, who was charming for free while pairing affordable wines by the glass that made for excellent matches.
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the castle complete with Rolls Royce
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one of several drawing rooms
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a game of snooker before dinner
On the food front, there is an a la carte and a tasting menu, and the chef kindly modified this to give us a real sample of Inverlochy's current offering. As is the castle/country house way, it was a pre dinner drink and canapes in the drawing room first and here a quail's egg benedict was a brilliant start.
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canapés by the fire
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the dining room
Taking our seats in the dining room for our blind tasting menu, there's an amuse of rabbit to start. After that, as on the regular tasting menu, it is an Inverlochy classic to begin: baked quail with foie gras. Delicate, rich, exploding with flavour, this was a satisfying course and a wonderful use of ingredients. We recognise that top end restaurants want to have foie gras on the menu as a luxury ingredient, but we've also bemoaned that something like a torchon rarely differentiates a restaurant. Here, bringing together the quail and foie gras (also seen at Joel Robuchon's L'atelier), it was so much more exciting that it set the perfect tone for the rest of the meal. Inverlochy refer to the quail and foie as their signature dish.
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rabbit and herb salad
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baked quail with foie gras
Next we have Scottish blue lobster with cauliflower and champagne vinaigrette. This too I loved, the firm meaty texture of Scottish lobster but here falling apart being perfectly cooked, and even cut, so that it's all made easy for you; they stop only short of actually feeding it to you personally. A little caviar on top adds a beautiful salty counter and a touch more luxury. One has to acknowledge that the menu at Inverlochy has a strong core component of luxury ingredients and that helps it to deliver, but a good chef must still make them sing and even luxury ingredients, when badly cooked, deliver only ruined luxury ingredients. 
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Scottish blue lobster with cauliflower and champagne vinaigrette
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turbot, pearl barley and chicken oysters
The roasted mallard with its own leg is our main and is the chef's special of the day. As noted in the Glenapp Castle post, it's great to come to Scotland and enjoy game of all varieties, not just venison and grouse, and this is the first mallard we've had on our trip. It's paired here classically with orange and cinnamon.
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roasted mallard with its own confit leg, cabbage, chestnuts and an orange and cinnamon jus
Desserts are Scottish strawberries with a mascarpone mousse, followed by a cranachan soufflé, cranachan being a traditional Scottish dessert of cream, whisky, honey and raspberries. I adore soufflés, how could I not love this, and everything is executed perfectly.
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Blairgowerie strawberries with a mascarpone mousse and champagne
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Hot Cranachan soufflé with raspberry sorbet
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Chef Philip Carnegie
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the view from the bedroom window next morning, and the first frost of the year
We were unaware of Chef Philip Carnegie before setting foot inside Inverlochy Castle. We subsequently learned that he joined Inverlochy in 2010 as Sous Chef but is now the Head Chef. And like many of the chefs we've met in Scotland, admirably, he has more interest in being behind the pass than on the TV. 

With Inverlochy setting its stall as being one of the best hotels in the UK, and even perhaps the world, there really is no choice to deliver food of the highest standards to your guests. On the strength of the meal we ate, he showed he's fully up to the challenge and with Philip reasonably new to the Head Chef position at the castle, we wouldn't be surprised if going forward, the food just keeps getting better. 

Inverlochy Castle is open for lunch and dinner to non residents also, so if you're staying in the popular Fort William area, this is worth considering if you wish to treat yourself. It's not cheap, but it is the best and the roll call of ingredients, rabbit, lobster, caviar, quail, foie gras, turbot at least provide a nod to where your money has gone. But in the hands of a great kitchen, as it is here, the end result is a little piece of magic. After a holiday, you soon forget much that took place, remembering only the absolute highlights, and as such, we'll always remember we had a great time and a great meal at Inverlochy.


Visit Inverlochy Castle website
 
Previously I visited Glenapp Castle, SW Scotland

Next stop: Ackergill Tower


Location map for Inverlochy Castle 
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4 Comments
Alan Spedding ( cumbriafoodie ) link
18/10/2012 06:11:11 am

I`m slowly and very carefully following your Scottish trip here and sudying with an intense look upon my face....Think i definitely need to plan a West coast tour. Ive never done this part of the world and yet its just over a stones throw away.The food once again looks amazing and my kind of eating.

Reply
Philip Gregory King link
20/10/2012 04:08:23 pm

Great article and the castle looks very homely. Food looks good too, makes a change from some of the oddly newfangled fare on offer in Scotland. Last time was in Edinburgh I had to hunt pretty hard to find a restaurant that sold traditional Scottish fare and local, seasonal produce. Worth it in the end though!

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Philip Carnegie
12/1/2013 06:32:13 am

Apologies for not being in touch sooner busy times. Just like to say thank you for the review and hope to see you both back up here soon. Phil.

Reply
thecriticalcouple
12/1/2013 07:16:19 am

thanks Phil (and no surprise that you've been busy), had a great time with you and would love to come come back soon if plans permit. cheers.




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