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Locanda Locatelli: an Italian star

12/6/2011

4 Comments

 
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Giorgio Locatelli must be considered one of the most famous names in Italian food here in the UK. As well as TV and cook books, he's also been associated with some of London's top Italian eateries of recent years: Zafferano (where he earned his first Michelin star), Spighetta and Spiga. When he opened Locanda Locatelli in 2002, his first independent venture, the Michelin star was awarded within a year and nine years on, Locanda Locatelli is still a draw. On our Friday lunchtime visit, every table was full.

With four of us around the table and with only one order replicated, we got to see a lot of the food on offer. Our overall verdict was that Locanda Locatelli served a great meal, some plates offering some real highs, only a couple of so-so dishes and overall, fully deserving of its Michelin star and a restaurant we'd happily return to. Against key competitors, fellow Michelin star luminaries Zafferano and Semplice, there's little between them from an enjoyment perspective and which you'd choose to visit for a great Italian meal is more likely to be determined by the part of town you happen to be in.

Deciding on the full Antipasti and Pasta run in, we had a round of salt cod (x2), ox tongue, and razor clam and tomato soup to begin the meal. The ox tongue we considered to be amongst the best of its kind and the razor clam and tomato was also well received. On the salt cod dish, the tomato, nicely dressed watercress and the polenta crisp were excellent for taste and texture but the salt cod itself was a little underwhelming lacking depth of flavour.

On the pasta course to follow, the meaty tortellini came in a beautiful clear broth and was nicely comforting. The 'home made' pasta contained in all of these dishes was excellent as you might expect in a restaurant of this calibre, but it is always nice when it actually is. But while the tagliatelle itself was beautifully done, the 'kid goat ragu' lacked intensity being instead a little thin, almost watery. However, the strozzapreti with tomato, salami and olives was without fault as was the malfatti of ricotta, walnut and aubergine.

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the dining room
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Creamed salt cod, polenta crisp, watercress and tomato
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Ox tongue and salsa verde
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Razor clam and tomato soup and fregola
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Tortellini in clear broth
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Tagliatelle with kid goat ragu and chilli
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Strozzapreti with tomato, spicy salami, black olives and ricotta
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Malfatti di ricotta, walnut and aubergine
The main courses were all executed well. The monkfish was tender to cut and the walnut and caper sauce stood up well to the big fish. Both the veal dishes were greatly enjoyed by our friends at the table and with the veal plates and the monkfish, it can be seen that this is the kind of restaurant that serves (quality) ingredients in a bold way, with big flavourful sauces to satisfy and comfort rather than deliver artwork plates.
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Veal with parm ham and sage, baked aubergine and girolle mushrooms
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fillet of veal
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Char grilled mackerel with spelt "cous cous" salad
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Roast monkfish with walnut and caper sauce
The desserts were also excellent all around the table but the real highlight was the saffron and chocolate fondant that when cut into, just dribbled the liquid yellow saffron centre onto the plate. It really delivered on the promise and provided a very original dessert option. The chocolate plate was more traditional but nicely worked a variety of chocolate textures onto the plate. Tiramisu is obviously a classic and was delivered as such with no real tampering while the Cannoli offered a cleaner fresher prospect if all this chocolate is overwhelming. 
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Saffron and chocolate fondant, milk ice cream
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Tasting of "Amedei" chocolate
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Cannoli sicilliani with fresh strawberries and pistachio ice cream
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Tiramisu
Locanda Locatelli provided an excellent meal across the menu. It's not a 'cheap' menu however with antipasti courses at the £12-14 level and main courses at the £30 level, easy enough then to run up £100 a head once drink and service are wrapped in. This is a small (but admittedly, only small) premium to say Semplice, and for sure, it's a stylish venue in an expensive part of town. That said, if we want great Italian food but without wanting to dig quite so deep into our pockets, new challengers like Zucca with antipasti priced below £5 and main courses at around £15 delivers a very competitive offering that makes it a genuinely attractive alternative. Locanda Locatelli though has been open almost a decade and held a Michelin star for most of that time and it's that combination of quality assurance and comfortable surrounds that you're paying for.


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Related links: Zafferano

Related links: Semplice

Related links: Zucca


Locanda Locatelli on Urbanspoon
4 Comments
gina
13/6/2011 07:12:58 am

The food does look great - and the menu choices very appealing. LL has always been one of my favourite restaurants in London and I've always admired Giorgio but I was disappointed the last time I went and found the menu choices uninspiring. However, on the basis of the kid goat ragu and the walnut/aubergine combo, I am going to have to go back!

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Kathryn link
13/6/2011 08:21:21 am

I've always been wary of Locanda Locatelli and thought it might be a bit 'style over substance' but I might have to reassess. The pasta dishes sound perfect and that chocolate and saffron fondant looks wonderful!

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Paul
13/6/2011 08:34:58 am

Like another reviewer, Gina, I had seen too many mixed reviews of Locanda Locatelli to make me rush there. It was always on my list of places to visit but it always got superceded by others.

With the arrival of Zucca I find it hard to imagine getting any better Italian food (and better value) in London. So I've been less and less inclined to try LL.

Another reason that I've not managed to get there is that my wife has a thing against Giorgio. On his TV appearances he was always seen brushing his hands through his long hair and then immediately handling the food. She found this very off-putting.

Leaving all that aside, your review has re-piqued my interest in trying LL. Whether I will give up an opportunity to go there versus returning to Zucca only time will tell.

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gina
14/6/2011 03:22:29 am

I would say 90% of visits to LL have been fabulous - it was only the last that fell slightly short of expectations. And that wasn't because of the quality of the food, just that the menu choices didn't leap out at me. I have to say, I don't really get the Zucca comparisons - I really enjoyed Zucca but found the menu limited, and found the space rather sterile. The food was v good, but didn't make me drool so to speak! Personally love Cecconi - for food, vibe, and the fact I always have difficulty choosing!

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