The Moreno in the name is Chef Moreno Cedroni, an Italian chef whose flagship restaurant La Madonnina del Pescatore in Senigalla holds two Michelin stars, but while his name is above the door of the restaurant, here at the Baglioni Hotel on Hyde Park Gate, he is, we understand, a consultant rather than a principal.
The restaurant is plush, furnishings soft, but situated on the ground floor of the hotel, without partitions, the space seamlessly merges the restaurant, bar and then lobby of the hotel leaving you unsure where any one begins or ends.
For the sushi & susci starter (.98), the menu promises 8 small recipes from the cook book sushi & susci written by moreno cedroni, which seems to us slightly odd, to name check himself on the menu of his own restaurant. The starters were probably the most successful courses in a weak field. The tempura scallops infused with cuttlefish ink (.97) had the potential to be tremendous, and in the odd bite they were, though most of the time they we laid low by soggy tempura. The sushi was good in parts too while the veal and raspberry pairing proved a combination too far.
The fusilli is hard going for little reward and the seafood lasagne with coconut and parsley sauce fails to excite, the coconut seeming to us again an addition that does in fact subtract.
The meal, as you'd expect in a Kensington hotel/restaurant by a starred chef (consultant), is not cheap, but at half the price it still would have been a disappointment. In the mothership restaurant in Italy, there might be genius on the plate, but it has failed to travel well and in London, you'll find better elsewhere, from Apsleys to Zucca.