As I program the Sat Nav to take us from our current location of Whitby to our final destination Morston Hall in Norfolk, I notice, while playing around with it, that we could actually be home in the same time frame (though the Sat Nav clearly has no sense of what the M1 into London is like on a late Sunday afternoon). When it starts raining to boot, I wonder if this detour, for that's what it now seems, is going to be worth it.
When we arrive, an attractively presented country house hotel, a roaring log fire, and friendly and smiling staff lift our spirits. By the front desk, a magazine titled, 'Morston Hall 20th Anniversary', is available to guests and I take one; once in my room, I flick through it before doing anything else and it contains amongst other things, testimonials from Prue Leith, Sat Bains and Delia Smith. Then I see a double page spread written by Michel Roux (Snr) where he says of proprietor and chef Galton Blackiston,"I respect him enormously".
I'm both elated and worried: if Michel Roux is singing Galton's praises, he's clearly pretty damned good, but there again, what if I'm genuinely disappointed, or even worse, actually don't like it?
I need not have worried. The dinner that night was absolutely superb and I was thoroughly delighted that I had ventured out to the UK's most Easterly Michelin starred restaurant. The key brilliance for me about Chef Galton's cooking is that he makes the ingredients sing in a way that I've rarely encountered before, and certainly not as consistently. As such, it becomes more than just an enjoyable meal, it becomes a memorable meal, and one you can 'enjoy' over again as you recall days and weeks after just how good it really was.
When we arrive, an attractively presented country house hotel, a roaring log fire, and friendly and smiling staff lift our spirits. By the front desk, a magazine titled, 'Morston Hall 20th Anniversary', is available to guests and I take one; once in my room, I flick through it before doing anything else and it contains amongst other things, testimonials from Prue Leith, Sat Bains and Delia Smith. Then I see a double page spread written by Michel Roux (Snr) where he says of proprietor and chef Galton Blackiston,"I respect him enormously".
I'm both elated and worried: if Michel Roux is singing Galton's praises, he's clearly pretty damned good, but there again, what if I'm genuinely disappointed, or even worse, actually don't like it?
I need not have worried. The dinner that night was absolutely superb and I was thoroughly delighted that I had ventured out to the UK's most Easterly Michelin starred restaurant. The key brilliance for me about Chef Galton's cooking is that he makes the ingredients sing in a way that I've rarely encountered before, and certainly not as consistently. As such, it becomes more than just an enjoyable meal, it becomes a memorable meal, and one you can 'enjoy' over again as you recall days and weeks after just how good it really was.
Mortson Hall - country house hotel
a welcoming fire
the dining room
The menu at Morston Hall is a set menu that changes daily to accommodate those staying more than a single day. Set menus so far on the trip have been something of a disappointment, but clearly, it was not the case here. After some canapés there's the 'chef's appetiser' of chestnut soup with partridge. I'm already impressed, as an amuse, it would have been easy (and obvious) to serve up the soup alone, and I still probably would have cooed over it for it was a great chestnut soup, but adding partridge into the mix raises the game and with a weary October day outside, it's perfect.
chestnut soup and partridge
The first course saw me do a double take on the menu: Camomile roasted Elveden Farm carrot, locally shot rabbit. Don't they mean rabbit with carrot? No. This was a delightful, charming and surprising dish for it is indeed about the carrot with the rabbit in a secondary (but important) role. This is actually a really risky dish because it runs the 'so what' gauntlet, like giving tomatoes or potatoes prime billing: just a few top chefs make it work, elsewhere it can just seem a little sad. Chef Galton pulls it off, again, because of the intensity of flavours. I'm impressed.
Camomile roasted Elveden Farm carrot, locally shot rabbit
Pan fried North Sea turbot, spinach, raspberry vinegar jus
Not much to say on the turbot other than it was thoroughly enjoyed, but on the main, Norfolk lamb, I'm without doubt in food heaven, for it is amongst the best lamb ever. Really. We've commented time and again on this blog of so-so lamb dishes, we've praised those who get full flavour in to theirs, but I can rarely remember eating lamb where the flavour was so intense that you felt like you were discovering lamb for the first time. Seriously, I never wanted this dish to come to an end. I think going forward, this will be the lamb dish that all other lamb dishes will be compared to (and thereby judged). A trip to Mortson Hall is worth it for this dish alone, regardless of where in the country you live.
Saddle of Norfolk lamb, Norfolk peer potatoes, local sprouting broccoli, hay infused jus
We would rarely comment on a pre dessert but here I feel compelled to, it's a grapefruit and champagne mousse. Again, it's the same thing, flavour. Of the many champagne sauces and foams that are served in great restaurants, how many can you really taste the champagne in? To be honest, not many. Here, the champagne sparkles. We're very happy.
grapefruit and champagne mousse
A banana soufflé with honey ice cream was similarly perfect, you need only look to the picture below to know how good this was. Indeed, as I write this, and look below, I want it all over again.
banana soufflé with honey ice cream
petit fours
All the staff at Morston Hall were excellent without exception. We didn't have time to get to know them all (sadly) but Ellie was brilliant helping us with the local pub, while the absolute star of the evening was Dan (who you should all follow on Twitter @dcoe89) who looked after us with a dram of whisky on our return.
Flicking through through their 20th anniversary magazine, there's a highlighted quote from Michel Roux:
Morston Hall has a Michelin Star because it is a little gem. It is a destination where you are guaranteed the most comfortable room with staff that go out of their way to make you feel welcome and excellent food with a wine list to match. For me, it's a slice of heaven.
I'm sure Michel Roux will be thrilled to know we entirely agree with his summary. After 2,500 miles of driving around the UK, stopping off at some of the country's most exciting places to eat, from Land's End to John O'Groats, Mortson Hall was a perfect, brilliant and fitting end to the trip. A genuine highlight.
Visit Morston Hall website
Follow Chef Galton Blackiston on Twitter @ChefGalton
Previously we visited The Magpie Cafe, Whitby
Next stop: HOME!
Morston Hall location map
Flicking through through their 20th anniversary magazine, there's a highlighted quote from Michel Roux:
Morston Hall has a Michelin Star because it is a little gem. It is a destination where you are guaranteed the most comfortable room with staff that go out of their way to make you feel welcome and excellent food with a wine list to match. For me, it's a slice of heaven.
I'm sure Michel Roux will be thrilled to know we entirely agree with his summary. After 2,500 miles of driving around the UK, stopping off at some of the country's most exciting places to eat, from Land's End to John O'Groats, Mortson Hall was a perfect, brilliant and fitting end to the trip. A genuine highlight.
Visit Morston Hall website
Follow Chef Galton Blackiston on Twitter @ChefGalton
Previously we visited The Magpie Cafe, Whitby
Next stop: HOME!
Morston Hall location map
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