Murano opened its doors in 2008 and at that time it was part of the Gordon Ramsay stable of restaurants (with Hartnett's interest in Murano at 15%). According to press reports, it was only around a year and half later when Angela Hartnett decided that she wanted full ownership of her own restaurant at which point Ramsay, beleaguered with his own financial problems, suggested she buy him out of Murano, which she readily agreed to do.
In October 2010 the deal completed and now Murano is fully owned and run by Ms Hartnett. And yet for all that, the best part of a year later, it still feels likes a Gordon Ramsay restaurant. Admittedly, there's little you can do about the décor. Giles Coren suggested in his review in The Times that all of Ramsay's protégé chefs had forced on them 'dining rooms modelled on the same Abu Dhabi hotel hairdressing salon' and indeed, the room did 'enjoy' a sort of gold leaf glow to it as if to imply it is worthy of its Mayfair postcode but which at the same time detracted from an individual identity.
Perhaps because of that, the restaurant structurally exudes formality which at times feels archaic against current restaurant trends where the likes of Heston's Dinner or Pollen Street Social can still offer fine food but while dialing the formality down a notch.
Finally, and most surprisingly, despite the change of control, the food, as much as we can tell from reading earlier reviews, hasn't changed that much. It is possible that Ramsay gave Hartnett full control over the menu from day one, though from what we know of the way Ramsay operates, we find that unlikely. The idea surely of Hartnett taking control (and surely her motive) should be to unleash pent up originality and creativity that is otherwise denied her as part of the larger Ramsay Holdings group. And yet we don't feel that either.
There's plenty on the menu that appeals though and while waiting for the ordered food to arrive, some nice extras are delivered to the table. A bowl of arancini arrives and some Parmesan crisp make for nice munchies, as does a board of ham and salami. An attractive basket of bread arrives but somewhat disappointingly, offers little taste wise.
In October 2010 the deal completed and now Murano is fully owned and run by Ms Hartnett. And yet for all that, the best part of a year later, it still feels likes a Gordon Ramsay restaurant. Admittedly, there's little you can do about the décor. Giles Coren suggested in his review in The Times that all of Ramsay's protégé chefs had forced on them 'dining rooms modelled on the same Abu Dhabi hotel hairdressing salon' and indeed, the room did 'enjoy' a sort of gold leaf glow to it as if to imply it is worthy of its Mayfair postcode but which at the same time detracted from an individual identity.
Perhaps because of that, the restaurant structurally exudes formality which at times feels archaic against current restaurant trends where the likes of Heston's Dinner or Pollen Street Social can still offer fine food but while dialing the formality down a notch.
Finally, and most surprisingly, despite the change of control, the food, as much as we can tell from reading earlier reviews, hasn't changed that much. It is possible that Ramsay gave Hartnett full control over the menu from day one, though from what we know of the way Ramsay operates, we find that unlikely. The idea surely of Hartnett taking control (and surely her motive) should be to unleash pent up originality and creativity that is otherwise denied her as part of the larger Ramsay Holdings group. And yet we don't feel that either.
There's plenty on the menu that appeals though and while waiting for the ordered food to arrive, some nice extras are delivered to the table. A bowl of arancini arrives and some Parmesan crisp make for nice munchies, as does a board of ham and salami. An attractive basket of bread arrives but somewhat disappointingly, offers little taste wise.
The crab starter (crab, cucumber, dill, spring onion and rye toast) delivered an attractive plate backed up by good flavours but the risotto dish was a sad let down. On the menu as Risotto, white onion, Parmigiano Reggiano, truffle vinaigrette, it not only had no evident truffle flavours but was heavily dressed with an unadvertised balsamic vinegar, the overall result being that the plate that arrived was not the one you thought you ordered.
The restaurant to their credit handled the issue well, our waiter checking with the chef precise details of the risotto's construction (yes there was truffle vinaigrette but they accepted our view that it was drowned by the balsamic), and they willingly offered an alternative starter. The replacement starter was the Minestrone, Spring vegetables, rocket pesto and Parmesan. This offered a generous portion of a good fresh Minestrone though a touch of cracked pepper to the dish would have also been welcome.
The restaurant to their credit handled the issue well, our waiter checking with the chef precise details of the risotto's construction (yes there was truffle vinaigrette but they accepted our view that it was drowned by the balsamic), and they willingly offered an alternative starter. The replacement starter was the Minestrone, Spring vegetables, rocket pesto and Parmesan. This offered a generous portion of a good fresh Minestrone though a touch of cracked pepper to the dish would have also been welcome.
Risotto, white onion, Parmigiano Reggiano, truffle vinaigrette
crab, cucumber, dill, spring onion and rye toast
Our main courses were Pork, Iberico shoulder, fennel, tiger prawn and orange bitter, and Beef, watercress, girolles, bone marrow, cabernet vinaigrette. The pork dish was a little disappointing. The Iberico shoulder itself was 'pluma' that by coincidence we had enjoyed for the first time at Jose exactly a week earlier. While at Jose it had aggressively packed flavour, here it was less obvious and the orange dominated. The pork belly meanwhile was, even by belly standards, extremely fatty while the skin had not crisped up. And as for the tiger prawn on the plate, its role or purpose in the dish was not entirely evident to us.
The beef was good but the reasonably generous portion of bone marrow added little by way of additional intensity to the dish which was a small shame. Accordingly, the dish was a competent main but not an extraordinary main.
The beef was good but the reasonably generous portion of bone marrow added little by way of additional intensity to the dish which was a small shame. Accordingly, the dish was a competent main but not an extraordinary main.
Pork: Iberico shoulder, fennel, tiger prawn and orange bitter
Beef: watercress, girolles, bone marrow, cabernet vinaigrette
Ahead of desserts, more table nibbles, this time a selection of sorbets. The variety of flavours on offer (too numerous to remember) and the freshness provided after a big protein main was a welcome addition and much enjoyed.
Our dessert choices were Chocolate: milk chocolate ganache, smoked almond ice cream, and Souffle: banana, rum and raisin ice cream. Apart from the addition of popping candy to the chocolate which now seems ubiquitously employed with expectation of delight in a confection that used to sell for 5p a packet under the label of Space Dust when we were children, desserts were nice enough.
Finally, more extras with chocolate balls with hazelnut dusting, and a bowl of cherries while we settled the bill.
Our dessert choices were Chocolate: milk chocolate ganache, smoked almond ice cream, and Souffle: banana, rum and raisin ice cream. Apart from the addition of popping candy to the chocolate which now seems ubiquitously employed with expectation of delight in a confection that used to sell for 5p a packet under the label of Space Dust when we were children, desserts were nice enough.
Finally, more extras with chocolate balls with hazelnut dusting, and a bowl of cherries while we settled the bill.
sorbets
Chocolate: milk chocolate ganache, smoked almond ice cream
Souffle: banana, rum and raisin ice cream
chocolate and cherries
the dining room
Two additional things need mentioning. First, despite the formal feeling to the place, the staff were very friendly and genuinely seemed to want us to have a good meal. They did well to overcome the venue's inbuilt austerity and tried hard.
Second, the wine is very expensive. With only a single glass of wine required today but wanting to make it count, I opted for a red Bordeaux. The Chateau Le Puy 2005, served by the glass (125ml) was being charged at a hefty £19 which, with service, takes the total to £21. A check on wine-searcher when home revealed that while Le Puy it is not widely sold, it is available from wine-source at £17 a bottle pre VAT so under £21 a bottle post VAT. Put another way, there's a 600% mark up on this wine by the glass; that seems a lot to us and we were glad we didn't require a whole bottle.
Overall then, despite the change of ownership, this felt like a meal from the Ramsay range, mostly competent but rarely thrilling. From the décor to the wine list it also felt very Mayfair. Angela Hartnett seems like a natural talent but we got the sense that maybe she's not a natural risk taker. We wonder if Murano would be a more exciting place if she could dial up by a notch or two that side of her personality so putting distance between her and her Ramsay heritage.
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Second, the wine is very expensive. With only a single glass of wine required today but wanting to make it count, I opted for a red Bordeaux. The Chateau Le Puy 2005, served by the glass (125ml) was being charged at a hefty £19 which, with service, takes the total to £21. A check on wine-searcher when home revealed that while Le Puy it is not widely sold, it is available from wine-source at £17 a bottle pre VAT so under £21 a bottle post VAT. Put another way, there's a 600% mark up on this wine by the glass; that seems a lot to us and we were glad we didn't require a whole bottle.
Overall then, despite the change of ownership, this felt like a meal from the Ramsay range, mostly competent but rarely thrilling. From the décor to the wine list it also felt very Mayfair. Angela Hartnett seems like a natural talent but we got the sense that maybe she's not a natural risk taker. We wonder if Murano would be a more exciting place if she could dial up by a notch or two that side of her personality so putting distance between her and her Ramsay heritage.
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