The story of chef patron James Close at Raby Hunt is a remarkable one, though veteran chefs with Michelin issues might wish to look away now. Three years ago, James was searching for a new career, having till then been involved in the world of professional golf. When a local Inn came up for sale, the Close family decided to buy it and, passionate about food but a novice to professional cooking, James manned the stove in the kitchen, where he was taught to cook bistro dishes by his mum, a former hotelier. His dad meanwhile ran the front of house in what was now a full and proper restaurant, with them somewhat bravely having decided not to go down the gastro-pub route.
More recently, the restaurant has steered a course away from bistro and towards fine dining and James, inspired by restaurants like Can Roca and Mugaritz, has pushed forward with his food. With the Raby Hunt and James's professional cooking career still just three years old, it was a complete surprise for the whole family when, just four weeks ago, Michelin announced that it had awarded Raby Hunt a Michelin star, the only restaurant in County Durham to have one. Such a story of culinary 'rags to riches', in what must be an unprecedented time, is media gold and James, still himself a young man, will undoubtedly attract much attention in the coming months and years. As luck would have it, we just happened to be passing by on our UK tour and called in to say hello, and to try James's cooking. It is, we have to admit, surprisingly accomplished.
We ordered from the lunch menu though James was kind enough to send us a few extras so that we could get a better taste of the kitchen. At the top of the menu is written 'inspired by simplicity' and James has taken to heart the idea that dishes should not be over complicated, with too many things going on, but in his dishes there's always enough going on and he strikes the balance well.
More recently, the restaurant has steered a course away from bistro and towards fine dining and James, inspired by restaurants like Can Roca and Mugaritz, has pushed forward with his food. With the Raby Hunt and James's professional cooking career still just three years old, it was a complete surprise for the whole family when, just four weeks ago, Michelin announced that it had awarded Raby Hunt a Michelin star, the only restaurant in County Durham to have one. Such a story of culinary 'rags to riches', in what must be an unprecedented time, is media gold and James, still himself a young man, will undoubtedly attract much attention in the coming months and years. As luck would have it, we just happened to be passing by on our UK tour and called in to say hello, and to try James's cooking. It is, we have to admit, surprisingly accomplished.
We ordered from the lunch menu though James was kind enough to send us a few extras so that we could get a better taste of the kitchen. At the top of the menu is written 'inspired by simplicity' and James has taken to heart the idea that dishes should not be over complicated, with too many things going on, but in his dishes there's always enough going on and he strikes the balance well.
the Raby Hunt restaurant with rooms
inside the dining room
We start with a taste of the tasting menu, with 48 hour braised ox cheeks with ceps, peas and a green peppercorn jus. It's spot on: the cheeks, braised in local beer, falling apart as they should and rich with flavour; it's a cracking start.
48 hour braised ox cheeks with ceps, peas and a green peppercorn jus
It's the ordered starters next including pan fried plaice with radish and clam jus, but for me, it had to be the 'creel caught langoustine'. In fact, I was desperate for this dish for my time in Scotland had yielded almost no Crustacea at all (what I wonder is going on?). With the artichoke and the foam, it's hard in the picture to fully make out but there are two gorgeously plump langoustine under there that were a delight to eat. This dish was perfect.
pan fried plaice with caviar, radish and clam jus
creel caught langoustine with Jerusalem artichoke and an almond sauce
Next James sent out the hare dish for us to try: hare with variations of beetroot and fillet tartare. Hare on the menu for a young chef is a brave move anywhere and I suspect even more so at an old Inn near Darlington, where getting people to try it must be a challenge. We've already seen hare twice this week, first featuring a full main course loin at Glenapp Castle, then the blow your head off rich Hare Royale at Castle Terrace, this was different again, more subtle, certainly refined but unmistakably hare and cleverly done, especially if the name of the game is to broaden diners' minds and palates.
hare with variations of beetroot and fillet tartare
Our mains are from the lunch menu and are Goosnargh duck with chicory jam and duck jus, and sea bream with brown shrimp and cauliflower. It's a sign of James's whetted ambition that he now feels the sea bream is too much of a bistro dish that he would like to leave behind, though there's strong customer demand for this type of thing. It's nicely done though and the value in doing simple things well shouldn't be under estimated.
Goosnargh duck with chicory jam and duck jus
Pan fried sea bream with a potted brown shrimp butter and cauliflower
Another sampler from the tasting menu follows with the first dessert, coconut and pineapple; it is nicely presented and tastes good, fresh but with just enough sweetness from the mango. Coconut and pineapple seem a poplar combination currently having seen it served up on our recently at Driftwood as well as several London restaurants. James then, by accident or design is delivering up a very contemporary menu today.
After that it's the ordered dessert of chocolate bar with peanut butter ice cream for my dining companion and the Brillat Savarin ice cream and summer fruits for me. The chocolate bar looks indulgent and has that gold foil Louis XV touch while popcorn ice cream is another accompaniment that has featured widely on the trip. This was very much enjoyed by my dining companion.
My Brillat Savarin ice cream was good, though the ice cream ultimately seemed to play a secondary role to the fruit on the plate, especially as there was a fruit sorbet also. Being early October, it also felt just a little late in the year for a plate of summer fruits, though admittedly there was a nice blue sky outside; a relatively minor quibble however.
After that it's the ordered dessert of chocolate bar with peanut butter ice cream for my dining companion and the Brillat Savarin ice cream and summer fruits for me. The chocolate bar looks indulgent and has that gold foil Louis XV touch while popcorn ice cream is another accompaniment that has featured widely on the trip. This was very much enjoyed by my dining companion.
My Brillat Savarin ice cream was good, though the ice cream ultimately seemed to play a secondary role to the fruit on the plate, especially as there was a fruit sorbet also. Being early October, it also felt just a little late in the year for a plate of summer fruits, though admittedly there was a nice blue sky outside; a relatively minor quibble however.
Coconut & Pineapple with frozen lemon yoghurt, mango and passion fruit
Rich chocolate bar with popcorn ice cream
Brillat Savarin with variations of summer fruits
chef James Close
Overall then, this was a great meal and with the Raby Hunt being a family operation, they should all feel very proud. What's more, with only James and one other person in the kitchen, it's an incredible achievement, though a Michelin star so early may prove a mixed blessing as business levels ramp up, placing new stresses on the kitchen and front of house. There are plans already under way to grow the kitchen team.
But we can't help but be impressed by the back story that has taken them this far and the implications of that for the future. James is clearly a big talent with large ambitions and youth on his side. The plates all looked good, he clearly has an eye for the aesthetic, and everything tasted as good as it looked. Who knows what the future holds for the Raby Hunt, but it's hard not to be excited.
Visit the Raby Hunt website
Follow James Close on Twitter @rabyhunt
Previously I visited Castle Terrace, Edinburgh
Next stop: Magpies Cafe, Whitby
Raby Hunt location map
But we can't help but be impressed by the back story that has taken them this far and the implications of that for the future. James is clearly a big talent with large ambitions and youth on his side. The plates all looked good, he clearly has an eye for the aesthetic, and everything tasted as good as it looked. Who knows what the future holds for the Raby Hunt, but it's hard not to be excited.
Visit the Raby Hunt website
Follow James Close on Twitter @rabyhunt
Previously I visited Castle Terrace, Edinburgh
Next stop: Magpies Cafe, Whitby
Raby Hunt location map
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