Restaurant Martin Wishart was the first restaurant in Edinburgh to gain a Michelin star (back in 2001) and we understand they are hoping to get their second star in January next year. On the strength of our recent meal there, they deserve to.
It was the very strength of their reputation that took us there in the first place for we had been told by more than a few people in the know that it was the place to eat in Edinburgh. Admittedly, we knew little about the restaurant before going but were excited by the prospect. We hoped that the combination of high quality local ingredients and the restaurant's distance from the uber density of Mayfair's Michelin stars would give some fresh perspectives on food. We were also out with friends and looking for a good time so nothing too stuffy.
The restaurant exterior is a modest affair while inside it's on the small side though extensive use of mirrors enhances the sense of space. Service was friendly from the start and while the house style is pressed white table cloths, the atmosphere amongst guests was relaxed. Our first food bites of the evening were haggis bon bons; definitely not London then. Two each, about a centimetre in diameter, they were lighter than you might imagine, lighter in texture that is, but not taste. Already off to a good start.
The restaurant offers four menu options: a la carte, a tasting menu, a vegetarian tasting menu and given the season, a white truffle tasting menu. We elected for the standard tasting menu and asked for an additional truffle dish to be woven in just so we could get a taste of their truffle offering.
A plate of amuse bouche comes first and includes a delightful beetroot macaron that is so light it dissolves in the mouth almost instantly, reminiscent in that respect ofThe Fat Duck'snitro lime mousse but here achieved without going 200 degrees below. A small taste of pig's trotter was also a nice touch. A pumpkin veloute was also served that was so smooth and delicious that everyone around the table felt a need to comment. That registers as a good start.
First from the menu was a crab 'Marie Rose' and veal tartare, white radish and basque pepper. Two islands of the crab and veal tartare arrive on the plate wearing a hat of shaved radish. This dish worked well with the combination of crab, Marie Rose and veal, adding an extra dimension to merely a stand alone crab dish or tartare. Portion sizes are respectable too.
It was the very strength of their reputation that took us there in the first place for we had been told by more than a few people in the know that it was the place to eat in Edinburgh. Admittedly, we knew little about the restaurant before going but were excited by the prospect. We hoped that the combination of high quality local ingredients and the restaurant's distance from the uber density of Mayfair's Michelin stars would give some fresh perspectives on food. We were also out with friends and looking for a good time so nothing too stuffy.
The restaurant exterior is a modest affair while inside it's on the small side though extensive use of mirrors enhances the sense of space. Service was friendly from the start and while the house style is pressed white table cloths, the atmosphere amongst guests was relaxed. Our first food bites of the evening were haggis bon bons; definitely not London then. Two each, about a centimetre in diameter, they were lighter than you might imagine, lighter in texture that is, but not taste. Already off to a good start.
The restaurant offers four menu options: a la carte, a tasting menu, a vegetarian tasting menu and given the season, a white truffle tasting menu. We elected for the standard tasting menu and asked for an additional truffle dish to be woven in just so we could get a taste of their truffle offering.
A plate of amuse bouche comes first and includes a delightful beetroot macaron that is so light it dissolves in the mouth almost instantly, reminiscent in that respect ofThe Fat Duck'snitro lime mousse but here achieved without going 200 degrees below. A small taste of pig's trotter was also a nice touch. A pumpkin veloute was also served that was so smooth and delicious that everyone around the table felt a need to comment. That registers as a good start.
First from the menu was a crab 'Marie Rose' and veal tartare, white radish and basque pepper. Two islands of the crab and veal tartare arrive on the plate wearing a hat of shaved radish. This dish worked well with the combination of crab, Marie Rose and veal, adding an extra dimension to merely a stand alone crab dish or tartare. Portion sizes are respectable too.
crab 'Marie Rose' and veal tartare, white radish and basque pepper
While other reviews of Martin Wishart suggests that our next dish, ceviche of halibut, mango and passion fruit has not achieved the balance it should, we beg to differ finding it totally harmonious, offering all the ingredients in the right proportion; with the touch of meringue on top to give a little sweet component with a crunch, we were again in agreement that this was great food.
ceviche of halibut, mango and passion fruit
There was a five pound supplement for the next dish (with the no supplement option being the salmon), but given the ingredients the surcharge is not surprising while at the same time meaning we couldn't just pass by: Loch Ryan native oysters, green apple, sauerkraut and oscietra caviar. Beautifully presented on the plate with the oyster in shell, the green apple coming as a jelly layer on top of the oyster flesh, the sauerkraut spherification beads on the jelly and finally, the caviar on that. They give you a mini fork and spoon to eat it in three mouthfuls (it's been cut into three already) though mine mostly disappeared in one and with it being so good, you then take the fork and attempt to clean up every last morsel.
Loch Ryan native oysters, green apple, sauerkraut and oscietra caviar
Hand dived sea scallop, parmesan crisp, parmesan sauce and white truffle was our additional course to push our truffle button and it delivered. The dish was, as you'd hope, wonderfully aromatic, something to be savoured before even picking up the cutlery. The scallop, as can be seen in the picture below, was perfectly cooked, silkily textured and complimented by the sauce that delivered the flavours with just the right degree of intensity, again keeping the dish in balance.
Hand dived sea scallop, parmesan crisp, parmesan sauce and white truffle
With venison in season and appearing on menus across the country it seems, our next course provided a nice change up from the usual venison steak or roast: tortellini of Borders Roe Deer, cauliflower cream and sauce grand veneur. The sauces throughout the night were excellent but here, they were the star on the plate with a super creamy cauliflower and the grand venuer: pepper sauce with the addition of game blood, red currant jelly and cream. The pasta was excellent also.
tortellini of Borders Roe Deer, cauliflower cream and sauce grand veneur
Having ordered a nice bottle of red to go with the meat courses, the kitchen were kind enough to enhance the tasting main of roast saddle of native Shetland lamb, spelt risotto, Jerusalem artichoke and trompette mushrooms with both shavings of white truffle on top of the dish and truffle within the risotto. The risotto which can so often be a disappointment even in a quality restaurant had just the tight degree of creaminess and al dente (with bags of flavour). By sight alone, the nicely pinked lamb pointed to spot on cooking of the meat and with fat rendered appropriately, everything here was pitching in.
roast saddle of native Shetland lamb, spelt risotto, Jerusalem artichoke and trompette mushrooms
There's a choice of desserts, chocolate croustillant (meaning crispy) or pink grapefruit and passion fruit cream. We all chose the chocolate so one of us at the table sportingly changed his order so we could see what the passion fruit cream would be like; none of us were disappointed. The chocolate had many expression with varying textures and degrees of milkiness; it was thoroughly enjoyed. We didn't taste the passion fruit but squeals of delight across the table and a very empty plate spoke volumes. Petits fours followed.
chocolate croustillant
pink grapefruit and passion fruit cream
By the end of the meal, we were full but not uncomfortably so. The meal had followed a good progression of light to heavy with good portion sizes that never skimped but allowed the next course to be enjoyed also. Service was friendly and knowledgeable, discreet when needed and paced well.
Oysters, scallops, lamb and venison amongst others gave the appropriate due to the restaurant's location and while we love foie gras, it was nice to work through a tasting menu where it was absent for a change. Do too many chefs cling to foie gras, allowing it to do the heavy lifting for them on an expensive tasting menu? Martin Wishart seems to want to move away from the obvious and broadly achieves that as both the oyster and deer course demonstrate.
We'll see in January if the restaurant gets its second star and we hope it does for this is serious food, brilliantly cooked with great taste. It's food that you can really enjoy and have a memorable dinner with friends where everyone leaves happy. While even a single Michelin star is coveted by most restaurants, our own experience is that one star alone can provide a broad range of experience including the downright disappointing. For a tasting menu to be of this quality, one feels that Martin Wishart could never be that and compared to say The Square or Pied a Terre, the extent of any 'gap' is debatable.
Finally, at £65 for the six course tasting menu (not including the delightful amuse bouche and petits fours), this is pretty good value too. Meanwhile, the wine list has many reasonably priced wines listed but if you're in the mood to spend a little more, modest mark ups on the more expensive bottles allow for some great wines at really quite decent prices.
Accordingly, we add our voice to the growing chorus of Martin Wishart fans and believe that anyone who wants a great dining experience while in Edinburgh need look no further.
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Oysters, scallops, lamb and venison amongst others gave the appropriate due to the restaurant's location and while we love foie gras, it was nice to work through a tasting menu where it was absent for a change. Do too many chefs cling to foie gras, allowing it to do the heavy lifting for them on an expensive tasting menu? Martin Wishart seems to want to move away from the obvious and broadly achieves that as both the oyster and deer course demonstrate.
We'll see in January if the restaurant gets its second star and we hope it does for this is serious food, brilliantly cooked with great taste. It's food that you can really enjoy and have a memorable dinner with friends where everyone leaves happy. While even a single Michelin star is coveted by most restaurants, our own experience is that one star alone can provide a broad range of experience including the downright disappointing. For a tasting menu to be of this quality, one feels that Martin Wishart could never be that and compared to say The Square or Pied a Terre, the extent of any 'gap' is debatable.
Finally, at £65 for the six course tasting menu (not including the delightful amuse bouche and petits fours), this is pretty good value too. Meanwhile, the wine list has many reasonably priced wines listed but if you're in the mood to spend a little more, modest mark ups on the more expensive bottles allow for some great wines at really quite decent prices.
Accordingly, we add our voice to the growing chorus of Martin Wishart fans and believe that anyone who wants a great dining experience while in Edinburgh need look no further.
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