At Roka, they do some things, like the sashimi, very well. Other things were done less well. But since everything is expensive, one feels that it should all be pretty damn good which means that you leave the restaurant feeling mildly disappointed.
The problem for Roka at Canary Wharf in our opinion is threefold: first, it's a surprisingly large restaurant which means mass production rather than personalisation, second, it is ultimately a concept restaurant, a chain even (no matter how authentic) rather than a chef led restaurant, third (and tied in to one and two), it is caught in the middle market, clearly many grades above the Yo! Sushis of the world but still not at the top of its class where presumably its even pricier sibling Zuma can make a claim to be (Zuma Dubai is rated 83rd on the SP World's Best Restaurants list).
Perhaps this is all a long way of saying that we enjoyed the meal at Roka, but given the lightness of our pocket after, and knowing what we could get at Mayfair's swankiest stars for the same money, we felt we should have enjoyed it more.
We opted for their tasting menu (£75pp) to get a broad selection of what they do. It starts with the 'sashimi moriawase' comprising yellowtail, o-toro, langoustine and salmon. This is in our view was the best dish of the meal and the best thing too about Roka. It was all pretty much excellent and we imagine it is consistently so.
The next section of the menu comprises wagyu sushi, foie gras, lobster and black cod dumplings, and scallop skewers. Here things became a little more diverse in their appeal, the scallops excellent, the lobster dumpling surprisingly bland.
The same mixed reception was afforded the next four plates, asparagus, black cod in yuzo, lamb cutlets in Korean spices and rice hot pot of crispy soy chicken and fresh truffle. This latter dish, as well as fresh truffle, had we believe a most liberal dose of truffle oil overwhelming the dish which admittedly would have had little merit anyhow. Nothing in this quartet seemed that special and not helping matters, with everything arriving to the table at the same time at a table that could scarcely accommodate the plates, it was impossible not to find some of the dishes go cold while waiting to be eaten.
The problem for Roka at Canary Wharf in our opinion is threefold: first, it's a surprisingly large restaurant which means mass production rather than personalisation, second, it is ultimately a concept restaurant, a chain even (no matter how authentic) rather than a chef led restaurant, third (and tied in to one and two), it is caught in the middle market, clearly many grades above the Yo! Sushis of the world but still not at the top of its class where presumably its even pricier sibling Zuma can make a claim to be (Zuma Dubai is rated 83rd on the SP World's Best Restaurants list).
Perhaps this is all a long way of saying that we enjoyed the meal at Roka, but given the lightness of our pocket after, and knowing what we could get at Mayfair's swankiest stars for the same money, we felt we should have enjoyed it more.
We opted for their tasting menu (£75pp) to get a broad selection of what they do. It starts with the 'sashimi moriawase' comprising yellowtail, o-toro, langoustine and salmon. This is in our view was the best dish of the meal and the best thing too about Roka. It was all pretty much excellent and we imagine it is consistently so.
The next section of the menu comprises wagyu sushi, foie gras, lobster and black cod dumplings, and scallop skewers. Here things became a little more diverse in their appeal, the scallops excellent, the lobster dumpling surprisingly bland.
The same mixed reception was afforded the next four plates, asparagus, black cod in yuzo, lamb cutlets in Korean spices and rice hot pot of crispy soy chicken and fresh truffle. This latter dish, as well as fresh truffle, had we believe a most liberal dose of truffle oil overwhelming the dish which admittedly would have had little merit anyhow. Nothing in this quartet seemed that special and not helping matters, with everything arriving to the table at the same time at a table that could scarcely accommodate the plates, it was impossible not to find some of the dishes go cold while waiting to be eaten.
sashimi
as above
wagyu sushi, oscietra caviar, spring onion, fresh ginger
scallop skewers with wasabi and shiso
foie gras, plum wine and seaweed toast
lobster and black cod dumplings with chilli ponzu
asparagus with sweet soy and sesame
black cod marinated in yuzo miso
rice hot pot of crispy chicken and fresh truffle
as above
Desserts were cleverly presented and looked overwhelming as a plate merely to be shared between two, though when we got down to it, the same presentation had made there appear to be more than there really was and it was not so much a struggle. Credit to them here, it was a nice dessert plate though little that was too original being ice creams, a crème brulee and a chocolate fondant.
creme brulee
ice cream
warm chocolate fondant
For all the development, finding a good meal at Canary Wharf remains a challenge and in that respect, Roka offers at least something a little different and, at a certain quality for much of their offering. Parked within 2 minutes walk of Barclays' and HSBC's global headquarters, they know their clientèle, and after a hard day fixing LIBOR, this is the first choice for many we're sure. Expect your wallets to be lightened accordingly.
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