The best of Italian hospitality, when done sincerely (and therefore well) delivers unrivalled friendly warmth that makes you feels as welcome as if you had returned to the family home after many years of absence. Whilst only my second time to Semplice (the first being merely a fleeting visit a few weeks back), brilliant front of house Giovanni Baldino provided exactly that and settled me in like an old friend as I waited for my dining companion to arrive. Indeed, the service throughout the meal was exceptional and just one of many reasons to like this Michelin starred Italian restaurant set yards back from Bond Street/Oxford Street.
There's a Trattoria Semplice too just a few yards down the road if you want a more traditional Italian but at the 'ristorante', modern Italian cooking meets the best of Italian ingredients providing the magic touch when you are after something a little bit more special.
My dining companion today is @winechapUK who is a long term fan of the restaurant and who assures me on the quality of what we are to eat, and given his excellent knowledge, what we are to drink. By his account, bottles are sourced and imported directly from suppliers so that the best of Italian wine can be offered at the keenest of prices; understandably, here, I'm very much in his hands. I'm delighted to say that both he and the restaurant delivered.
The menu is divided up into a typical trio (antipasti, pasta and carne e pesce) and I'm tempted across the board. Fortunately, the restaurant resolves my dilemma by allowing us a tasting menu across their offering which we eagerly accept.
First up is the 'Vitello tonnato', sliced fillet of veal with 'tonnata sauce'. This is simply lovely with the most tender, wonderfully executed veal with a tonnata sauce that is light, balanced and fresh. A lovely little start to the meal.
Next up is the Fassone carpaccio, which I understand to be beef from a cattle breed native of Piedmont. We're also told that the carpaccio comes from the female cow rather than the male which marks it as unusual. I must admit to being a novice in these finer distinctions but it tastes good indeed, seasoned perfectly well and with the lambs lettuce and dressing adding a nice refreshing acidity providing overall balance on a well executed dish. Semplice (and goodness did I pronounce this badly till I heard how it should be said and then I still probably massacred it) is Italian for simple, but as we have said before in our blog (see Joel Robuchon's L'Atelier) that 'simple dishes' often give more satisfaction than 'complex dishes' because complexity can hide many sins whereas a simple dish has nowhere to hide and if it's not good, it's soon found out. Here, there are no such worries and the quality shines.
There's a Trattoria Semplice too just a few yards down the road if you want a more traditional Italian but at the 'ristorante', modern Italian cooking meets the best of Italian ingredients providing the magic touch when you are after something a little bit more special.
My dining companion today is @winechapUK who is a long term fan of the restaurant and who assures me on the quality of what we are to eat, and given his excellent knowledge, what we are to drink. By his account, bottles are sourced and imported directly from suppliers so that the best of Italian wine can be offered at the keenest of prices; understandably, here, I'm very much in his hands. I'm delighted to say that both he and the restaurant delivered.
The menu is divided up into a typical trio (antipasti, pasta and carne e pesce) and I'm tempted across the board. Fortunately, the restaurant resolves my dilemma by allowing us a tasting menu across their offering which we eagerly accept.
First up is the 'Vitello tonnato', sliced fillet of veal with 'tonnata sauce'. This is simply lovely with the most tender, wonderfully executed veal with a tonnata sauce that is light, balanced and fresh. A lovely little start to the meal.
Next up is the Fassone carpaccio, which I understand to be beef from a cattle breed native of Piedmont. We're also told that the carpaccio comes from the female cow rather than the male which marks it as unusual. I must admit to being a novice in these finer distinctions but it tastes good indeed, seasoned perfectly well and with the lambs lettuce and dressing adding a nice refreshing acidity providing overall balance on a well executed dish. Semplice (and goodness did I pronounce this badly till I heard how it should be said and then I still probably massacred it) is Italian for simple, but as we have said before in our blog (see Joel Robuchon's L'Atelier) that 'simple dishes' often give more satisfaction than 'complex dishes' because complexity can hide many sins whereas a simple dish has nowhere to hide and if it's not good, it's soon found out. Here, there are no such worries and the quality shines.
Next up is something of an unusual pairing, scallop with foie gras. My first thoughts on tasting this was that the richness of the foie gras drowned the subtlety of the scallop but the dish invites you to try again and when you pay more attention, you're rewarded for it for the combination in the quantities provided really does work (especially when paired with a Gewurztraminer). Luscious bordering on decadence, again, simple but originally conceived and beautiful.
Breaded monkfish and soft poached egg follows. Monkfish is often known as poor man's lobster but there's nothing poor here, the monkfish is wonderfully tender, combines well with the egg while roughly hewn croutons lend a nice textural crunch. This is followed by sedanini pasta with a venison ragu and black cabbage sauce which provides another delight. More traditional Italian for sure but perfectly executed as you'd expect pasta from a Michelin starred Italian to be.
Breaded monkfish and soft poached egg follows. Monkfish is often known as poor man's lobster but there's nothing poor here, the monkfish is wonderfully tender, combines well with the egg while roughly hewn croutons lend a nice textural crunch. This is followed by sedanini pasta with a venison ragu and black cabbage sauce which provides another delight. More traditional Italian for sure but perfectly executed as you'd expect pasta from a Michelin starred Italian to be.
The Risotto alla Milanese (with saffron and bone marrow) offers up a sunshine plate of creamy loveliness. This is (I believe) something of a signature dish for them and is executed with the appropriate confidence. I tried this on the previous occasion, loved it then, love it now, and will love it next time round I'm sure.
The final main is Roast Denham Estate venison with broccoli sprouts, blueberry, and red wine and foie gras sauce. Again, simple but splendid. Venison not overcooked (amazing how often it has been elsewhere). Beautiful.
For dessert, rhubarb and white chocolate with a rhubarb shot. This was a refreshing rather than heavy dessert with the chocolate and rhubarb offering a finely paired balance, lifted by sprigs of mint. As the chocoholic half of the criticalcouple, I would have been happy with a sweeter orientation but I recognise that this dessert offered finesse rather than just unadulterated sweet gratification.
The final main is Roast Denham Estate venison with broccoli sprouts, blueberry, and red wine and foie gras sauce. Again, simple but splendid. Venison not overcooked (amazing how often it has been elsewhere). Beautiful.
For dessert, rhubarb and white chocolate with a rhubarb shot. This was a refreshing rather than heavy dessert with the chocolate and rhubarb offering a finely paired balance, lifted by sprigs of mint. As the chocoholic half of the criticalcouple, I would have been happy with a sweeter orientation but I recognise that this dessert offered finesse rather than just unadulterated sweet gratification.
The coffee here is also universally agreed to be excellent, so termed Afribon, but grappa would also make an appearance today: I think Giovanni heard me voice reservations and felt that I needed to get in touch with my inner grappa lover. My reluctance stems from a very bad night that I had in a Milan trattoria years back when the restaurant owner mistook me downing an offered grappa in one (for it was too painful to sip) with me actually liking it and so he kept it coming (charging it on the bill as espresso so there would be no problem later reclaiming it on expenses). Today's offering was a thousand times better but with all due respect, a good single malt whisky is and will remain my first and foremost after dinner drink.
The verdict is that in a crowded field of Mayfair Italian restaurants, Semplice offers a wonderfully welcoming environment with food to match. The food too is originally conceived, marvellously cooked and offers the simplicity of its ingredient's flavours. That, as noted, leaves them nowhere to hide but there again, they don't need anywhere to hide because they deliver on the ingredient's promise. In so many ways, this seems like food as it was meant to be. I'm already looking forward to returning.
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