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Skylon: great value food on the Southbank

14/6/2011

2 Comments

 
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We have enjoyed excellent meals at Coq d'Argent and Plateau so trying out another flagship D&D restaurant is now something we reasonably look forward to rather than fear. There's another thing we know too and that is that the wine list (being a D&D restaurant) will be so reasonably priced that whatever we drink today will almost certainly be a bargain in restaurant terms. In fact, one lovely Bordeaux we spotted on the list seemed such good value we ended up buying it to take home (once I had convinced the sommelier that I wasn't joking). 

Unlike the two D&D restaurants mentioned earlier in the post which are principally the haunts of City folk (in the wider sense), Skylon is based on the Southbank in the Royal Festival Hall so the clientèle are perhaps a little more diverse and while that might improve the atmosphere (fewer Blackberrys for a start), it's not obvious what it means for the food.

The restaurant also offers stunning views over the Thames and  up towards The Strand and Charring Cross and with a window seat (where the tables for two are), we do feel we've hit a jackpot as we ease back into our chairs. Staff too were friendly and polite throughout and the overall feel is one of capability in all areas. For all the criticisms of the D&D group, they do maintain standards and we've yet to fault them on the way we're treated and looked after (and for the record, Skylon didn't know we were coming, didn't know we were bloggers and we were afforded no special treatment). 

The menu is quite simple, a choice of six starters and a choice of six mains. It is also vegetarian friendly with the mains offering up two veg based dishes, two fish dishes and two meat dishes. We start with a carpaccio of veal, golden raisins, capers, almonds, mache salad and banyuls dressing. We also opt for the Cornish mackerel rillette, pear and endive salad and walnut dressing. Both dishes offer up full flavours, are well seasoned and both the almonds on the veal and the walnuts on the mackerel highlight the role of texture as well as taste in the offerings, something seen in the main courses also. 

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Today's view
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carpaccio of veal, golden raisins, capers
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Cornish mackerel rillette, pear and endive salad and walnut dressing
If there's criticism to be offered of Skylon it is in our view with the mains, not because they're badly done, they're not, but because looking down the menu, there's nothing that really sets our pulse racing. The vegetarian options of Roots or Aubergine are (for me) instantly dismissed, leaving a choice between the fish (Sea bream or salmon) and pork belly or braised beef featherblade. One pork and one salmon it is then. 

The pork is offered with sherry braised cabbage, basquaise spinach and pedro ximenez dressing. The salmon comes with curly kale, pine nuts, butternut squash cream and thyme creme fraiche veloute. The salmon was delightful and could hardly be cooked better. The butternut squash cream was uniformly smooth and the veloute was a fantastic addition, lifting the dish nicely. It was a very competent dish. The pork, with wonderfully crispy crackling was similarly well executed. 
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belly of pork
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salmon and butternut squash
It is of course appropriate in the Royal Festival Hall there should be theatre and the theatre today was courtesy of orange crepes suzette, flambee with mandarin napoleon and fresh orange salad. While I know that the Ritz (where we have yet to go) proudly flambee desserts at the table, since we started the blog, this is the first time we have seen it on the menu and my inner child can't resist. The preparation table is brought over (close but not too close, there's not so much gap between the tables) and the crepes are diligently fired in front of us; a dessert to lift the spirits surely.

The other dessert was a parfait of honey and confit cherries, toasted pine nuts, lemon dacquoise, port and passion fruit jelly. No theatre but nicely presented and enjoyed. Also a nice touch is the dessert wine sampler giving you three 25ml glasses of different dessert wines (a muscat, a Suaternes and a tokaji) for £11.50 allowing you to compare three very different sweet wines side by side; great for sharing too.  Finally, a nice surprise at the end of the meal was a wheel of petite fours (you are after all in the shadow of the London Eye).
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tableside theatre with crepes suzette flambee
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crepes suzette
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parfait of honey and confit cherries
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petit fours
Overall, this was a very well executed meal by Skylon; it was also a relative bargain. For the food alone, three course from the a la carte was just £28.50. Compared to our last meal out where Locanda Locatelli charged over £30 for the main course alone, this really is a bargain. So today, even adding a pre meal glass of champagne, a glass of wine with the main course and the dessert wine tasting, the overall bill seemed comparatively modest. 

The issue that foodies are likely to have with Skylon in our view is that the menu is perhaps too mainstream: something for everyone and nothing likely to offend. But the risk is that while the menu will not offend, nor will it truly excite and that might reflect its location, purpose and ownership. Coq d'Argent offered classics brilliantly done but also with a modern twist and very good looking plates; Plateau meanwhile enticed with braver dishes such as assiette of rabbit suggesting that they are now dabbling with adventure; Skylon was excellent start to finish but lacked an ultimate wow factor. But at this price it hardly seems reasonable to raise the issue.

I would return to Skylon and not just to raid their wine list. The food was done very well indeed, was served up in enjoyable surroundings by friendly staff and it offered truly excellent value for the money. It's not yet a destination restaurant in its own right but if Southbank itself is your destination, then it is certainly worth considering. If you're getting together with friends, it's a convivial place to meet and eat. We enjoyed the meal today, and taking Skylon for what it is, I find I have no complaints whatsoever. 


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Related posts: Coq d'Argent

Related posts: Plateau


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2 Comments
Kavey link
14/6/2011 02:26:08 pm

The dessert wine sampler sounds absolutely amazing!

We nearly ate here not too long ago, but when we went in one lunch time, not right at the start of the lunch period either, and there was only one other table dining, we were told, very haughtily, before we'd even said anything, that we couldn't have any of the window tables. Given the time, and that it was a winter weekday lunch, it seemed unlikely to us that all those tables were booked, so seemed to be rudeness for rudeness sake, so we turned around and left.

But I've been wanting to eat here for a while, so shall persevere and go another time.

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unknown
19/6/2011 04:27:45 pm

is butternut squash in season

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