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St John Bar and Restaurant: 17 years on and still original

30/9/2011

1 Comment

 
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St John Bar and Restaurant in Farringdon has been part of the London food scene since 1994 long before restaurants ever had to worry about food bloggers (geeks might be interested to know that the first photo to be uploaded onto the world wide web occurred two years earlier in 1992 and it was not a plate of pork). But having been around so long and remained true to its ethos, St John has remained perennially popular while the prices also make it accessible. Accordingly, St John might well be the most blogged restaurant in London and Fergus Henderson's 'nose to tail' eating concept is we would imagine now known by all.

Despite needing a lick of white paint here and there, the establishment has aged well and continues to achieve critical acclaim: in the San Pellegrino World's 50 Best, it ranked 16th in 2008 and 14th in 2009, though fell back to 43rd in 2010. It recovered two place to rank 41st in the most recent awards.

And having previously uploaded ourselves Chez Bruce to the blog, a notable absence where we only recently dined for the first time, St John too has been a notable absence, though we've dined there a few times over the years, it just never made it to the blog - till now. And while we have had one very bad meal there, there is a charm to St John that continues to grow on us and certainly our most recent meal was much enjoyed.

The Roast Bone Marrow and Parsley Salad is almost always my starter order here for I think no one has topped St John in serving bone marrow. The combination of the toast, the parsley salad, course sea salt and bone marrow scooped out of piping hot bone cylinders is unbeatable and a treat every time. We also order a Whole Crab and Mayonnaise which is impressively large. We can't go wrong.

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On entry, the bar (hidden to the left of picture) and bakery
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inside the restaurant, table for two
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Roast Bone Marrow and Parsley Salad
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the bone marrow on toast
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whole crab
Mrs CC shows her usual adventure and orders Chitterlings and Swede. Chitterling is a Middle English word for the small intestine of pigs, and as long as that thought doesn't bother you, they are surprisingly good, more substantial in texture than I would have guessed and more porky in taste also. Our other dish was the Roast Middlewhite Loin & Fennel. On ordering, we were warned that this was fatty, and they weren't kidding, but it was very good, and the crackling edge was magnificent (so many restaurants get that wrong).

A special mention goes to our side of greens and new potatoes because the potatoes were really special in their own right, from Cornwall we're told, and were so much more than just a filler.
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Chitterlings and Swede
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Roast Middlewhite Loin & Fennel
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awesome new potatoes and greens
Eccles cakes and Madeleines are amongst the St John stalwarts though we've tried both before and today we opted for Ginger Loaf and Butterscotch Sauce, and Pear Crumble & Custard. The ginger loaf was a mighty pudding in every way, and was an early winter treat for our Indian summer had yet to start. The pear crumble likewise was a step back to home cooking while the custard was pure class.
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Ginger Loaf and Butterscotch Sauce
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Pear Crumble & Custard
St John is a restaurant that knows its soul and we like that. It has its idiosyncrasies like those feeble wine glasses (though the corkage policy is excellent), but it retains the sense of being authentic and original and, other St John establishments aside, it hasn't really been copied, or at least, it hasn't been copied all that well. So, while so many other restaurants offer a me too experience, the more we return to St John, the more excited we are to do so. May it remain a part of the London food scene for another 17 years.


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Related links

St John Bread & Wine review

St John Restaurant website

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St John (Farringdon) on Urbanspoon
1 Comment
A Scot in London
7/10/2011 02:37:01 pm

Hello Mr and Mrs CC,

I have been frequently visiting your website for some time now and have become somewhat of a fan... In this review it's interesting to note how much you enjoyed your side dish of potatoes and greens. St John is obviously famous for its use of the animal "nose to tail" and all the rest but I don't think the restaurant gets enough credit for stuff like this which they do extremely well. Every time I have eaten here, the veg has been sublime. Indeed, if you look at establishments such as L'Arpege in Paris it is the humble vegegable that takes centre stage. I think this sort of thing is often overlooked here in the UK. Incidentally, I'm not a vegetarian - to my mind that equates to an eating disorder!

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