Old Amersham dates back forever and when, in 1086, it was entered into the Domesday Book, it was noted that there were 400 woodland pigs, 41 ploughs, 7 slaves and all in, Amersham was valued at £9. Just 27 miles north west of London, it is now worth considerably more and with a rich history, period buildings and the congestion of the capital far enough away to ignore but close enough to commute, it is a much sought after area. Accordingly, there are plenty of local folk interested in good food and The Artichoke, based in the very heart of Old Amersham, just steps away the ancient Market Square, is where those in the know go.
Run by husband and wife team Laurie and Jacqueline Gear, the restaurant dates back to 2002 though had an 18 month break when a fire in the neighbouring restaurant forced closure. While few things would seem more traumatic for a restaurant than this, they used the break wisely with, amongst other things, Laurie spending time in the kitchen at Noma. The restaurant meanwhile came back bigger and better, a full makeover of course, state of the art kitchen, and the acquisition of the next door premises doubling capacity.
We don't know how the 'old' Artichoke, was, but the new and improved Artichoke is in our view stunning, and the food delivers from start to finish. Cooking is precise, ingredients fresh, flavours bold and presentation excellent. And it's not just us who thinks so, The Artichoke has met with universal acclaim as it becomes more widely 'discovered' and is a favourite amongst chefs: the restaurant can even count Raymond Blanc amongst its regular diners. Indeed, at the restaurant's recent 10th anniversary dinner, Chef Blanc teamed up with Laurie, donned his whites and helped cook up the meal, delivering it personally to diners' tables. Yes, we too are kicking ourselves that we didn't attend that particular meal.
Despite all of the above, it's an unpretentious place with friendly staff and accessible menus. On the lunch service we attended, there's a set lunch, a la carte, five course tasting or seven course tasting with prices ranging from £25 through to £65; given the quality of cooking on offer, it represents excellent value. The tasting menu, our choice for the day, also provides diners with options on mains and dessert, so giving flexibility to the menu also.
The quality shines from the start, with Cornish mackerel served alongside 'isle of bute seaweed jelly', which initially brings to mind the richness of soy. Also with pickled mushrooms and pomelo, it's a plate that sings from the first moment and is a pointer to the quality that will unfold throughout the meal.
In a menu that is full of moments, it is two more seafood plates that perhaps edge in to our top slots for the meal. An Isle of Skye scallop with pork belly, cauliflower purée and cumin foam takes a few risks mixing cumin with some classic combinations but the dish maintains balance, with each of the elements still able to shine, but coming together to deliver that something extra. Needless to say, everything is beautifully cooked, but the precision and delicacy of the poached fillet of brill leaves us hushed with awe. An exceptional dish, plated with smoked chicken oyster, pumpkin mousse and crisp capers, it would have a deserving place served up in any of the world's finest restaurants.
And so went the meal. With brevity suggesting we should cut short our praise for the foie gras with hibiscus poached rhubarb, or the perfect quails breast, the pictures are nevertheless shown below, though you'd be best advised to plan a trip to Amersham and try it for yourself. On our visit, the place was humming and no one was in a rush to leave, so booking a table in advance is a must. With many awards already under its belt, and more undoubtedly on the way, we can only say they are all so well deserved. We will certainly return (that is, if we can get a table).
Run by husband and wife team Laurie and Jacqueline Gear, the restaurant dates back to 2002 though had an 18 month break when a fire in the neighbouring restaurant forced closure. While few things would seem more traumatic for a restaurant than this, they used the break wisely with, amongst other things, Laurie spending time in the kitchen at Noma. The restaurant meanwhile came back bigger and better, a full makeover of course, state of the art kitchen, and the acquisition of the next door premises doubling capacity.
We don't know how the 'old' Artichoke, was, but the new and improved Artichoke is in our view stunning, and the food delivers from start to finish. Cooking is precise, ingredients fresh, flavours bold and presentation excellent. And it's not just us who thinks so, The Artichoke has met with universal acclaim as it becomes more widely 'discovered' and is a favourite amongst chefs: the restaurant can even count Raymond Blanc amongst its regular diners. Indeed, at the restaurant's recent 10th anniversary dinner, Chef Blanc teamed up with Laurie, donned his whites and helped cook up the meal, delivering it personally to diners' tables. Yes, we too are kicking ourselves that we didn't attend that particular meal.
Despite all of the above, it's an unpretentious place with friendly staff and accessible menus. On the lunch service we attended, there's a set lunch, a la carte, five course tasting or seven course tasting with prices ranging from £25 through to £65; given the quality of cooking on offer, it represents excellent value. The tasting menu, our choice for the day, also provides diners with options on mains and dessert, so giving flexibility to the menu also.
The quality shines from the start, with Cornish mackerel served alongside 'isle of bute seaweed jelly', which initially brings to mind the richness of soy. Also with pickled mushrooms and pomelo, it's a plate that sings from the first moment and is a pointer to the quality that will unfold throughout the meal.
In a menu that is full of moments, it is two more seafood plates that perhaps edge in to our top slots for the meal. An Isle of Skye scallop with pork belly, cauliflower purée and cumin foam takes a few risks mixing cumin with some classic combinations but the dish maintains balance, with each of the elements still able to shine, but coming together to deliver that something extra. Needless to say, everything is beautifully cooked, but the precision and delicacy of the poached fillet of brill leaves us hushed with awe. An exceptional dish, plated with smoked chicken oyster, pumpkin mousse and crisp capers, it would have a deserving place served up in any of the world's finest restaurants.
And so went the meal. With brevity suggesting we should cut short our praise for the foie gras with hibiscus poached rhubarb, or the perfect quails breast, the pictures are nevertheless shown below, though you'd be best advised to plan a trip to Amersham and try it for yourself. On our visit, the place was humming and no one was in a rush to leave, so booking a table in advance is a must. With many awards already under its belt, and more undoubtedly on the way, we can only say they are all so well deserved. We will certainly return (that is, if we can get a table).
a secluded corner of the dining room
charred fillet of Cornish mackerel, Isle of Bute seaweed jelly, pickled mushrooms, pomelo
Pan fried Isle of Skye scallop, braised pork belly, cauliflower purée, chard romanesco and cauliflower, cumin foam
foie gras yoghurt, hibiscus poached rhubarb, malted macadamia nuts, puffed wild rice
pan fried quail breast, crispy stuffed leg, pickled artichokes, watercress, hazelnut mayo
poached fillet of brill, smoked chicken oyster, cumin feuilles de brick, pumpkin mousse, young red chard, crisp capers
maple glazed stokenchurch farm duck breast, confit leg pancake, sherry vinegar jelly, plum purée, spring onion, cucumber, young turnips, chinese cabbage, duck sauce
roast saddle of venison, slow braised shoulder croquette, venison salami, young beetroots, horseradish mousse, sprout tops, slow gin sauce
goat's milk mousse, sorrel sorbet
pear and caramelised white chocolate galette, poire william sorbet
petit fours
Laurie (far right) and team
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