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The Three Chimneys: Skye High

13/2/2014

20 Comments

 
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Even after you leave the mainland and cross the bridge to Skye, The Three Chimneys is still over an hour's drive in a broadly North West direction, Skye is a bigger place than you might think. Accordingly, it is unlikely that you will ever just be 'passing by' or visit the restaurant on a whim unless you already live on Skye. On our previous trips to Scotland, we had been unable to fit a visit to The Three Chimneys into our schedule but the strength of their reputation and the high praise afforded to Chef Michael Smith personally from other great chefs we know and respect meant that we have been aching to go there for some time and we pretty much planned our recent Scottish adventure around our stay there.

With a two night stay in their on site accommodation (The House Over-By) and consecutive dinners booked in the restaurant, we really hope we are going to like it or things could get a little awkward for everyone. Expectation too can be the enemy of experience and we had been looking forward to our Skye holiday for some time. Fortunately, there was no need to worry, The Three Chimneys is absolutely fantastic, the food, everything you could ever wish for on a plate, and all the people there so lovely that when it was time to leave, even though it had been just two days, we felt that we were saying goodbye to old and dear friends. 

Dining options at The Three Chimneys centre on two menus, an a la carte and a tasting menu (Taste of Skye), both of which can be enjoyed in the cosy front restaurant, while the tasting menu can also be taken at the Kitchen Table, which here, is exactly that, a table in the kitchen with space for up to six people. But this is more than just a chefs table experience peering into the kitchen form a favourable vantage point, for all guests at the kitchen table are invited to get up from the table between courses and be a part of the kitchen, stand at the pass if you like, talk to the staff and generally be involved. On our part, after a few queries of 'really?' and 'sure you don't mind?' to Michael, it was clear that it is a genuine invitation to join the kitchen family and we soon lost all inhibitions to wander freely around the kitchen at will. And to be clear on this point, this is their normal practice and not simply an invitation extended to us as bloggers. Without doubt it is one of the friendliest and most welcoming kitchens we have ever stepped in. 

The menu they offer is heaven and includes everything you would hope to find when going north of the border: oysters, crab, lobster, prawn, scallop, lamb, venison. As the menu name suggests, Taste of Skye, this is a very local affair so that oysters are from just over the way, the crab from Loch Bracadale on Skye, the lobster from Loch Dunvegan on Skye... you get the idea. A splash of Talisker also finds its way onto the menu just in case the penny has still not already dropped.

We love the Scottish larder and this is a beautiful Scottish affair. Chef Michael clearly has a deep affinity with the local area and that translates into a massive respect for the ingredients. There are nods to heritage so the meal starts with tiny bowl of Scotch broth that is hearty and comforting and leaves you wanting more (which we fabulously got the next day for lunch). Colbost Skink comes with Stornoway black pudding (Marag Dubh) and a drizzle of Talisker, perfect for a Hebridian February night (was raining cats and dogs outside).

Other big flavours come for example with the lamb rib where Talisker again lends smokiness to the deep and sticky BBQ sauce, but Michael also displays much lighter touches where required. The early seafood dishes such as the crab, lobster and scallop are all well judged affairs, nicely enhanced with the additions on the plate but never gilded, so the point of the dish is never lost and the principal ingredients shine; it's Scottish seafood heaven. 

The other special mention must go to The Three Chimneys famous marmalade, an allowable exception to their local ethos. The marmalade pudding has been on the menu for 30 years and is unlikely to ever come off and it is absolutely fabulous, while serving it with Drambuie custard then moves it on a step further to pudding nirvana. On the tasting menu it is sightly transformed into an orange marmalade souffle, but really, don't go all the way to Skye and leave without having eaten this pud.

This was a glorious meal, fun to eat but serious in execution, and a beautiful celebration of local ingredients. If Robbie Burns is Scotland's national poet, Michael Smith must surely be a candidate for their national chef (and he is @kiltkuisine on Twitter after all). For us, spending a night at the Kitchen Table, enjoying this food, being a nuisance in the kitchen yet still being so warmly embraced there, not only was a it a highlight of the holiday, it was as much fun as we can remember having in a restaurant since starting the blog. It made us happy then and it makes us happy now simply remembering. 

The Three Chimneys is 633 miles from our house but is without doubt worth every mile of the journey. We are already plotting our return.
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Scotch broth and scones
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Oysters
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Crab: Loch Bracadale Crab Parfait, Apple, Mull Cheddar
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View from the Kitchen Table
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Smoked Fish: Colbost Skink, Marag Dubh & Talisker Crumb, local croft egg yolk
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Lobster & Prawn: Loch Dunvegan Lobster Tomalley, Fennel Gratin & Prawn Bree
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Sconser King Scallop with Mallard, Jerusalem artichoke, chicory, blood orange & hazelnut
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Heroes of Savoury
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Lamb: Black Isle Blackface Haggis Pasty & Rib
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Venison: Saddle & Haunch of Lochalsh venison with layered roots, crowdie & ginger
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Cairnsmore Goats Cheese with poached pear & pecan crumble
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Heroes of Pastry
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Souffle: Three Chimneys hot marmalade pudding souffle, Drambuie syrup & mealie ice cream
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The Team at The Three Chimneys
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20 Comments
Shirley Spear link
13/2/2014 11:10:37 am

Really happy you made the effort to travel here. I knew you would love it! Thanks for a marvellous review. Come back again soon - and often!

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Chef more
7/4/2014 10:44:18 pm

Having eating with you on many occasions I am perplexed as to why you are serving Skye native oysters on your menu. After some research there is no commercial native farm for eduils on the island. This means you are serving oysters from untested water which in itself is a health concern. As a conservationist I have passed details of this article onto both the local council and SNH to investigate.

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barry la Tour link
24/4/2015 07:00:06 pm

so, you probably at the Glascow Mc Donalds and are wondering why things aren't going so well. in case you don't know, oysters will grow in many p[laces, bthough next to your Mc Donalds, the sewage from your grills and fryer probably take you out of the mix. Accomplish somethingf, then bitch, Bitch.

Claire Jessiman link
13/2/2014 12:52:12 pm

Looks like there have been some subtle changes to the 7 courses of Skye menu since we were there in October. All the more reason to make a return visit. Your amazing photography puts my efforts to shame http://www.foodiequine.co.uk/2013/11/the-three-chimneys.html

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Bill Miller link
13/2/2014 03:09:17 pm

Despite protestations to the contrary, I'm not a "stalker"; although, 3Cs and Shirley Spear may yet take out a no-contact order with the Scottish courts. LOL! We were fortunate enough to stay at 3Cs for 3 nights in October (during the gloriously warm period before the bad weather in late Oct/Nov), having flown from the US for a gastronomic journey through much of the UK. 3Cs stands out from the crowd. We've spoken frequently of it and strongly encouraged our well-traveled group of friends to seek out Skye and 3Cs. As I often post on FB, we SHALL return! Be forewarned, Chefs Shirley, Michael and the wonderful staff at 3Cs.

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Scotland eats out link
28/2/2014 05:23:38 am

Wow looks amazing, definitely need to add the three chimney's to our wishlist. Why on earth has it not got a star?

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TCC
28/2/2014 05:28:02 am

It's a disgrace that it has not been recognised by Michelin.

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Luc Martin
3/3/2014 10:34:09 am

Phwoaaarr.

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Chef more
7/4/2014 10:23:36 pm

Another great review and rightly justified in what is a little gem to Scotland. Only concern is why native oysters are in the menu as these are protected species in the Uk and know one on Skye has the permit to sell these commercially.

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Ginola14 link
13/5/2014 01:52:38 am

We were originally heading upto T3C in February. Due to mother's day issues we had to rebook. I am writing today to Chef/Patron as last weekend was our best "Joined up" dine and stay experience to date. But net:
1.your blog/article perfectly captures the magic and prefection of the place. Anyone thinking of going should read you.
2.every single member of the team. Paul, Michael, Izzy, Nick, Scott - the lot - were perfect and should be so so proud
3.it is shocking that with Alain Ducasse on 3 stars and Osteria Francescana in "3rd place" in the world that no formal recognition is yet with you. But it will arrive in the next 12 months - and we hope to be there to celebrate with you when it does. thank you SO much. Both the Critical Couple for getting it right AGAIN - and T3C's team.

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Emma link
20/11/2014 05:01:10 pm

We were lucky to get a table at the weekend there, middle of November and it's still fully booked. An amazing meal and your pictures do the three chimneys justice, wish we'd gone for the chefs table now!

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Roddy Campbell
24/2/2015 03:15:19 pm

Sitting in my hotel room after dining at the Three Chimneys tonight.
Fantastic food, incredible mixture of ingredients, and the Soufflé to finish the Skye taster menu, is quite simply the finest pudding on earth.
Outstanding.

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Sam Stewart link
13/5/2015 05:04:54 am

I am going in 10 days and your review made me very excited about the dinner! Thank you

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Ginola14 link
13/5/2015 06:21:23 am

The 3 Chimneys IS something to get excited about
If I could go there once a month I would
the Chef's table was probably the best dining experience "all things considered" for us of last year
Living south- eg a day of train-plane-and-automobiles away
I put this venue on a par with:
Midsummer House, Cambridge
the Artichoke, Amersham
And that includes last year ALLEDGED world no.1 Noma
And alledgeded world no.3 Osteria Francescana
I OWULD defo recommending a few quid extra - not much - to do Michael's chef's table though

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Su
14/7/2015 07:47:12 am

I will go to Skye in a couple of weeks and was already considering to have lunch or dinner at Three Chimneys. After reading this article I definitly will go there :-) !!! Thank you and greetings from Austria

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richard link
14/7/2015 07:55:27 am

3Chimneys is one of my top 5 experiences in the world. not best food, not best value, not many things. But how I pick my top 5 is "you can go back to 5 places before you die, which 5 do you pick". Mr Smith and friends are no.3 on THAT list. They are kind, appreciative, technically gifted, people orientated and ultimately a reason to spend a day travelling to!
Moreover, I would, if 2 or more, select the "chefs table". Its the only "chefs table" I have ever experienced, that was truly "you,them,us,the kitchen". If you need more detail on this I could wax lyrical for another hour.
But simply put.
JUST GO! I am jealous already!

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samanta stewart link
14/7/2015 08:14:39 am

Su, you may also want to take a look at my review on www.samstewartetc.com as I was there in May. They have just changed chefs I think btw, will be curious to hear how the new chef compares. Sam

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richard link
14/7/2015 08:19:48 am

if Michael Smith is there - relax, don't worry
he cooked us up an 8 course "standalone" dinner with 24 hours notice. T3C is all about amazing ingredients, competent chefs - and a PERFECT setting. If you hate the food - ill refund you personnaly!

The Critical Couple
14/7/2015 09:16:06 am

It does appear that Michael has left The 3 Chimneys as of end June 2015

http://skyechef.co/change-air/

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Ohio Brunette link
4/5/2021 04:57:33 pm

Interesting thoughhts

Reply



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