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Wishbone: chicken in Brixton

27/11/2012

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Wishbone is the new venture from @thepubgeek (part of the MEATliquor team) together with @theboydonefood. Based within the indoor market in Brixton, currently, it occupies a relatively small space within the market downstairs, though there's a further 50 seats and an additional bar upstairs.

The menu is simple enough, combining 'free range fried chicken' and 'sides'. Chicken comes as wings, thighs and chicken sandwich. A 1/4 and 1/2 chicken option will also soon be available. Within the chicken offerings, we tried the Buffalo wings which are large and very messy - dry towels and wet wipes are provided in abundance at the table, as well as 'Chicken Shop', which is a dry fried chicken needing the BBQ sauce provided to make the most of it, and finally, Thai (tamarind dressing, mint, chilli & shallots) which are small boneless thighs, causing them to resemble mini chicken nuggets. Here though, the tamarind dressing had soaked into the coating, taking away the anticipated crispy crunch, while the Thai flavours are relatively mild.

The big winner on the sides is the deep fried mac 'n' cheese, undoubtedly the dish of the day with its crispy outside and cheesy centre. Regular fries come in a bag and hot mess, a mixture of fries, chilli, blue cheese and pickles smothered in buffalo sauce comes, like the chicken plates, in a grease proof paper lined bowl. There's a colourful black eyed pea salad too, though black eyed peas seem outnumbered by the other ingredients.

It's probably not worth over analysing chicken wings as these broadly deliver and it is a place to grab some fast(ish) food if you're in the area and if the style takes your fancy. It's not expensive, wing portions are £4.50, thigh portions £5.50, the right price then, and at peak times and on weekends, it will undoubtedly be popular and busy.
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the menu
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buffalo wings
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Chicken Shop
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Thai thighs
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black eyed peas salad
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deep fried mac 'n' cheese
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hot mess
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fries
Wishbone on Urbanspoon
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