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Cornerstone

17/2/2019

2 Comments

 
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What: Cornerstone
Who: Tom Brown
Where: Hackney Wick
Why: The first restaurant from Tom Brown, Nathan Outlaw protege and former head chef of Outlaw's at The Capital
Cost: £££ 

A short review of Cornerstone is easily achieved: it's brilliant, the food is exceptional, simply go there. Done? Not quite.

Because in some ways, if you want to over-analyse things (usually guilty) and construct a narrative (usually guilty of that too - hey, I'm a blogger), Cornerstone is far more than just a restaurant, it's an explosion of so much of what is happening across Britain's dining scene today. First off, you've got a young and brilliant British chef, Tom Brown. Understandably then, the restaurant has a young vibe to it and you should expect tattoos and piercings galore: tick. Tom is a protege of Nathan Outlaw, the Cornish god of the sea, and Tom was Head Chef at Outlaw's at The Capital where his kitchen earned a Michelin star. Tom carries that same passion to Cornerstone with a fish based menu that throws no crumbs to non fish eaters - there's not even a consolation sirloin steak at the end of the menu for those who are not so keen on things that swim. We can therefore tick too each of: thematically focused, seasonal and ingredient led. British ingredients; tick.

The food is smart-smart but the restaurant is smart-informal. There's a central open kitchen so you can watch Tom at work, no table clothes of course and a good 'buzzy' vibe whatever time of day. But if you're like me, on your first time there, you'll mostly be thinking, wow, this is Hackney Wick; wow. After all, Outlaw's at The Capital is in the heart of Knightsbridge, a bolthole to collapse in when your Harrods shopping bags get too heavy, so take that chef, that menu and transport it to Hackney Wick and... and you end up with a massive success, or so it seems. Rather, you'll likely come to one of two conclusions. Either, break out the bunting, amazing British food cooked by a great British chef and appreciated by 'regular' British people in Hackney Wick, all of which tells you that the British culinary scene really has come of age. Or. Or you will view it as gentrification gone mad. And even though the restaurant has an informal vibe, don't mistake that for cheap, good money appears to have found its way here and Cornerstone is a smart establishment. You decide.

Hey, I'm a food blogger, I think it's brilliant. And, I live in East London and it's one of the few times I've had cause to get on an east bound train ahead of a bloggable lunch  (Nuno Mendes at Viajante at Bethnall Green was another). So I am thrilled. I think you'll be thrilled too (since you've got this far in the blog post).   

​In fact, it didn't take me long before I returned to Cornerstone and on that occasion ordered the whole John Dory in Roast Chicken butter sauce which was exceptional. If it's on the menu on the day of your visit, you simply must.

If this is the quality of output and ideas of the British culinary scene right now, if this is the standard of cooking we can expect from a new generation of chefs opening their very first restaurant and if this is where food in East London is heading, you know what, we really do need to break out the bunting.  
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Pickled oyster, celery, horseradish, dill
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Cured monkfish, grapes, almonds, sherry vinegar
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Grey Mullet Tartare, classic garnish, chicory
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Glazed carrots, smoked cod's roe, chestnuts
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Scallop (day's special)
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Line caught cod, parsnip, anchovy, chilli
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Dark chocolate fondant
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2 Comments

Chiltern Firehouse

22/1/2019

4 Comments

 
What: Chiltern Firehouse
Who: Owner Andre Balazs, Executive Chef Nuno Mendes 
Where: Chiltern Street, Marylebone (nearest tube Baker Street)
Why: A-list status
Cost: £££££

It's hard to approach Chiltern Firehouse without baggage, mostly because it's principally a hotel, but even for those not checking in, few venues garnered a reputation quite as quickly, as widely and divisively as here. Opened in 2013, CF immediately became the eating hot-spot of the rich and famous and even though it's no longer the new-new thing, 'paps' can still be seen loitering outside the premises many an evening. Famously, David Cameron in 2014 took wife Samantha there and left via the back entrance (but still got papped) while more recently (May 2017), Orlando Bloom had, according to the Daily Mail, 'a night of incredible sex with with hot waitress Viviana Ross.' You get the idea.    

But returning to the restaurant, from the very beginning, putting acclaimed chef Nuno Mendes in charge of the kitchen was an inspired choice. What's more, on my most recent visit, Nuno was there in the kitchen in chef's gear, as he was on the occasion of my first visit. Respect.

As I returned to restaurant eating following my break, I was intrigued to go there and, given the understandably expensive prices - brushing shoulders with Hollywood elites does not come cheap - I first went on my birthday in 2017 (while the blog itself remained on a break). I didn't see any stars that day, but there again, I once failed to recognise Cheryl Cole when I stood right next to her at an airport, but I really enjoyed CF as a restaurant.

What's most important in instances like this? Hard to say. But I wanted to eat everything on the menu. When the food came, it was as delicious as it sounded. The vibe in the restaurant was exciting and the staff were brilliant, never making me feel like a second class citizen because my last name wasn't Pitt. Admittedly, you're going to have to swallow the price - think £18 for a glass of champagne, yet I have chosen to return several times, usually when I want to go somewhere 'special' and don't mind spending the extra in pursuit of that.

A venue like Chiltern Firehouse invites each of us to entertain a narrative that is so much more than the food and the 'normal' expectation that we each have when heading out to even a top-end restaurant, at least until you've tried it. On that basis, describing the brilliance of the foie gras tarte in this blog post seems fairly pointless. But I don't go there to spot celebrities (I have never spotted one yet tbh), I go there because I like it, which is surely the best reason for going anywhere.
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Coronation Crab Donuts (£8)
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BBQ Pork Skewers (£6)
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Foie Gras Tarte (£26)
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Iberico Pork, cascabel chilli mayo, pineapple salsa on toast (£31)
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Wiltshire Black Truffle Gnocchi (£29)
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Chocolate something or other (£9)
4 Comments

The Clock House

15/1/2019

2 Comments

 
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The American comedian Steven Wright noted that it was a thin line that separated sitting on a river bank and fishing. Given how long ago it was that I last posted to the blog, it seemed like the thin line between 'late posting' and 'no longer posting' had been crossed. But it's time to catch up. Given general time constraints however - blog posts do take a while, even the simple ones - I think I will condense my musing somewhat. So here we go with The Clock House in Ripley, Surrey, which I visited last autumn (yes, I really am that behind).

What: The Clock Housee
Who: Serena Drake (owner), Fred Clapperton (Head Chef)
Where: Ripley, Woking, Surrey
Why: Michelin starred restaurant in heart of London's commuter belt
Cost: £££

I really enjoyed The Clock House, finding they struck the right balance between serious food but a friendly relaxed environment in which to enjoy it. When a friend told me where we were going, at first it didn't register, but The Clock House is formerly the Michelin starred Drake's. A divorce resulted in Serena Drake taking ownership and Fred Clapperton being promoted to head chef. All credit to them in winning back their Michelin star and on the basis of my visit, I would say fully deserved.

The set lunch menu offers two options for each course and between the table, we got to sample more or less everything, and everything we sampled made us happy diners. The cooking's precise and the flavours generous, with the food balancing the demands of those who enjoy Michelin 'fussery' versus those who seek appealing plates of food they simply want to get stuck in to. Both my mackerel and partridge were fabulous while across the table, the pork belly and grey mullet were equally well received. At £35 for three courses set lunch, nor is it too much of a strain on the wallet (I don't know where the dinner menu is priced). Service was really nice with a mostly young effusive team, friendly yet efficient.

Surrey is the heart of London's commuter belt and it makes a lot of sense to situate a quality restaurant there. Admittedly, few punters are likely to leave London especially to visit but for the well healed of Woking, of which there are many, this is a no brainer for when you want to eat out well.
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Snacks
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Pork belly, apple, alexanders
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Mackerel, ginger, almond
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Grey Mullet, mussel, coconut, ginger
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Partridge 'Kiev'
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Cheese plate
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Chocolate, thyme, rose
2 Comments

Holborn Dining Room: Eyes on the Pies

14/10/2018

1 Comment

 
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What: Holborn Dining Room
Who: Calum Franklin
Where: 252 High Holborn (nearest tube Holborn, duh)
Why: Pies
Cost: £££

I'm guessing you know by now (even I know and I'm more out of touch than you imagine). Holborn Dining Room (under Chef Calum Franklin) does pies, really good pies; no no, REALLY good pies.  Planning my trip to Holborn Dining Rooms, that's pretty much all I knew.

What else then do you need to know? First off, HDR is part of the Rosewood Hotel but as soon as you peel off the street to enter the hotel complex, the Dining Room is immediately on your left (with Scarfes Bar on your right) so you never really feel like you're in a hotel (which is clearly a plus). Second, the Dining Room also hosts The Gin Bar which claims 'London's largest collection of gins with over 500 Gins and 30 tonics,' (everybody needs a USP these days and clearly pies are not enough). Third, the style of the restaurant is that of a Grand Brasserie, (think Balthazar in Covent Garden), and servicing both the hotel and the public, it's large, something like 200 covers. Once again, you can feel the scale of the investment made.

​The menu is extensive and generally a crowd pleaser. If you don't want a pie, you still have plenty of choice as the 'Roast & Grill' section offers up a range from beef burger (£24) to ribeye (£30) to Dover Sole (£44). I'm still re-adjusting to London restaurant prices, but it's hard not to note that add a portion of chips (£5) to the Dover sole and you're at £49, which will become £56 after service is added. Fish and Chips however can also be had for £19 as can a shrimp burger.

But the pie will be, for many, the reason to visit and really, full credit to Calum Franklin for this achievement. His pies are a testament to his reach for excellence and accordingly, HDR is doing for pies what Bubbledogs did for hotdogs. With Wiki informing me that pies have been around for about 2,500 years, for Calum to single-handedly jump start pies to be trending across both social media and real menus elsewhere is an achievement that has as much substance as one of his own pie fillings.

At the basic level, the formula is simple: get the pastry right, get the filling right, combine them in the right proportions, but how many get it wrong? And how many can reproduce that winning formula across hundreds of pies every day? As impressed as I was by the pie (which was very impressed), I was as impressed by a kitchen that could repeatedly and consistently deliver on that achievement. And while I can imagine, for example, my dad being aghast at being asked to pay £20 for a pork pie (they sell 'em for under a pound in Morrisons you know), Calum's hot pork pie with gravy (can I call it gravy?) has as much in common with a supermarket pork pie as a Rolls Royce does with a Dacia Sandero.

I had been so much looking forward to visiting HDR and I am pleased to say that it fully lived up to its pie-tastic reputation. The dining room was vibrant with an international clientele (and atmospherically lit such that good photographs of the food are somewhat challenging - I did my best is all I can say). While many institutions have claimed 'world famous pies,' HDR might be the first restaurant where that's actually true (and Calum London's most famed pie maker since Mr Todd first supplied pie fillings to Mrs Lovett). Staff were friendly, the sommelier gave splendid recommendations and you will likely leave your meal here extremely full up. Traditioanlly, Holborn had little reputation for its dining scene but with HDR, it now, finally, has a destination restaurant. Definitely worth a visit. 

P.S. those who have known Holborn over the years will remember that just a few hundred yards down the road from HDR was the Melton Mowbray pub (which was refurbed in the summer of 2015 and subsequently reopened as the Inn of Court). This appears entirely coincidental and I am generally unaware of any specific or special link between Holborn and pork pies.   
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Scotch Egg
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Lobster Thermidor Tart
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Grilled Octopus & Chorizo
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Hand Raised Pork Pie
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Chicken Girolle & Tarragon Pie
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Fig Rum Baba
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Pistachio & White Chocolate Parfait
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Paris Brest (salted caramel, praline)
1 Comment

Mother Flipper vs Bleecker

10/9/2018

1 Comment

 
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Last week was a good week, I got to eat cheeseburgers on back to back days. Yay. It struck me that putting further burgers on the blog would be all round better if I did two at a time so they can be more easily compared. I might even do it as a knockout competition, like the FA Cup, but with less running around.

To select my participants, I have been using the Evening Standard's Best Burgers article that is dated 23 August 2018. I'll no doubt expand on the list in due course but it was a good place to start. This week then, it was Mother Flipper vs Bleecker.

Mother Flipper, you've just got to love that name for a start. If you want a Mother Flipper burger however, you'll have to either get lucky or have a plan because they're part of the KERB market thing which sees them move around such that on their website, looking at it right now, I see only three Mother Flipper opportunities in September: West India Quay (14th, 21st) and the Gherkin (27th). Being such an occasional market trader then, it ticks the 'burger with love' box. And while their signature Dirty Barbie looks interesting on paper (Barbie as in BBQ), and even more interesting in real life as the double patty makes it simply tower, to be fair and do a like for like, it has to be the standard cheeseburger.

The burgers here are 28 day aged chuck steak served in a glazed brioche bun and come with ketchup, mustard, onion, lettuce and gherkin. It's a good burger: it looks the part, it feels the part and it tastes the part. The burger condiments, like at Patty & Bun, are layered on the base of the bun so that the cheese on top of the burger with the bun placed directly on top of that can cook under a cloche melting and fusing the these three critical layers. It works a treat. At £7, I'm happy and this burger is a pretty tasty treat.   
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Bleecker has an origin story in a lawyer quitting his day job and buying a food truck. Once again then, it's a 'burger with love' story. That was 2012, though sadly, back in the day when it was just a food truck, our paths never crossed it seems. Roll the clock forward to 2018 and Bleecker has three permanent sites with the latest in the shiny new Bloomberg complex in the City, and that's where I headed.

The standard cheeseburger here is £6.50, while other options include a double cheeseburger, a bacon burger and a blue cheese burger. Once again however, the battleground of burger-wars requires a level playing field in so far as possible. I like the fact that you can get a beer with your burger here and that is something I took full advantage of.

On the Bleecker website, they talk about the beef being king in their offering and using rare breed dry aged beef in their burgers. I assume that that's an ongoing commitment and not just for their specials (like their award winning Bleecker Black). I'm unaware of details regarding the beef/patty being described in the shop, but there again, I'm not sure I looked that hard so I'm willing to say it's me, not them here.

But while the burger was nice enough, it didn't blow me away and it feels like some of the love story has been lost in the business practicalities of running multiple (presumably homogenised) outlets. The bun is a (very) soft white bap that squashes down as you approach the burger without ever springing back, so that it's quite a flat affair before very long. The patty itself is topped with cheese, a lettuce leaf and a mustard based sauce, so nothing too fancy. And while the cheese is nicely melted in, it all feels a little too close to what you might reasonably achieve at home.
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For me, in this particular burger war, Mother Flipper wins. From the brioche bun, to the burger-cheese-bun top deck package, to the overall burger-in-hand feel, Mother Flipper gets everything right. Bleecker, in my opinion, is a nice burger but never quite reaches the height of special. 
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Brat

1/9/2018

2 Comments

 
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What: Brat
Who: Tomos Parry (previously Kitty Fisher's)
Where: 4 Redchurch St, Shoreditch, London E1. (nearest transport: Shoreditch High St overground)
Why: Considered by many the hottest restaurant in the UK currently
Cost: ££££

It's almost impossible for a food blogger to now do an adequate review of Brat. The professionals have weighed in and declared Brat the best new thing, well, ever. Accordingly then, should the food blogger say it's not very good, the immediate riposte is, 'well, what do they know, look what Coren said. Bloody amateurs.' Whereas if we say that Brat is brilliantly fantastic, we simply join the chorus line of praise, inconsequential against Coren's flamboyant front and centre Billy Flynn. For the record, we loved Brat, it is truly excellent.

'I read Shakespeare once but didn't like it much, it was full of quotes,' as some wag once said. And while the professional critics are no fans of food bloggers, I am happy to give credit where credit is deserved, acknowledging that both Coren and Rayner are excellent writers. Accordingly, you expect a good turn of phrase. But there's another thing to remember on any particular turn: when they eat at a restaurant, they are in fact working, and when they then write the review, they are similarly working. In other words, as they search for the perfect phrase, even if that takes an hour or two (or ten), they're doing it on the clock, in the quiet study of their working day. The food blogger meanwhile scrambles to fit in some writing between coming home from work, cooking a meal and doing the ironing, thereby consigning perfect phrases to l'esprit de l'escalier.

I say all this because of Brat's egg-bottarga dish. Rayner describes it as follows:

It’s a thick slice of still-warm toast topped with a crushed mess of an egg, also just still warm, the yolk languidly fixed between solid and soft, overlaid with shavings of cured and dried grey mullet roe. The cosy nursery softness of the egg is punctuated by the salty, grown-up hit of the bottarga.

As a description, salty roe on scrambled eggs on toast hardly cuts it after that, does it? You're on a hiding to nothing to try. Coren clearly decided he'd up the ante with exaggerated praise and significantly less prose by declaring that this same dish was in fact:

the greatest single new dish to be invented in this country in decades

As I say, what room does that leave the food blogger to operate? Coren's already 'all in'.

So let's start elsewhere - the service. Looking after us that day was Caitlin, who it seems flew over from Perth, Australia specifically to take up the position at Brat. Bravo. She was totally brilliant and delivered service every bit equal to Parry's cooking. It's easy to forget but it's the FOH who prime your mood well ahead of a plate of food ever arriving at your table and that can set the tone for your enjoyment for the whole meal. Let's face it, Coren is hardly known for his sunny disposition, so maybe his review was nudged in the right direction by the wonderful FOH staff at Brat.
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Caitlin delivered service every bit equal to Parry's food
The menu itself is divided between large nibbles (£3.50 - £7), then something like starters (£7.50 - £12.50) and finally bigger dishes to share or not share (£18.50+). The sharing concept is broadly in operation throughout. Whole turbot (£65/75) for example is another dish everyone raves about but it's fairly substantial (while also costing a few quid) so if you're a table for two, you might want to see more of the smaller plates for the variety (unless you have huge appetites) and a wider variety of smaller plates was our choice, allowing us to take in a fairly decent selection (shown below).

And yes, everything is pretty much perfect, we had no criticisms anywhere. The cooking by fire thing is brilliantly done and adds that extra layer of depth to all the dishes. The bread for example on both the cod's roe dish and on the bottarga are both flame toasted and it brings that marginal gain that puts distance between it and the short cut electric toaster equivalent. Doing many things a little bit better accumulates to make a big difference.

And most noticeable of course is the meat cooked in this fashion. We had grouse to share which provided the perfect main after multiple starters and it was, honestly, the best grouse I've ever had and the grouse to which all future grouse must now be compared. Of course, real fire cooking adds a degree of unpredictability on getting each and every dish just right, especially perilous when cooking on a commercial scale, but that is what you're buying here, Parry's unquestionable skill in this area.

Devoid of pretension, Brat offers the most desirable of menus, brilliantly executed. I guess we've joined the chorus line of praise.   
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Smoked Cod's Roe (£3.50)
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Clams and Trotter Sauce (£7)
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Chopped Egg Salad with Bottarga (£5)
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Oyster Roasted with Seaweed (£3.50 ea)
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Spider Crab Salad (£9.50)
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Moorland Beef Tartare (£9)
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Grouse (£36)
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Caramel Cream (£5)
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Burnt Cheesecake & Peaches (£6)
2 Comments

Roganic: Grown Up (but still a load of fun)

26/8/2018

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What: Roganic
Who: Simon Rogan
Where: 5-7 Blandford St, London W1U (nearest tube Baker St/Bond St)
Why: Sister restaurant to 2 Michelin star L'enclume, unique take on modern British cooking 
Cost: ££££

It's back you know? On the off chance that you don't know, and let's face it, there's a lot going on in the world right now to distract us, Roganic, Simon Rogan's London satellite of his award winning restaurant L'Enclume in Cumbria has reopened two doors down from its original site on Blandford Street, Marylebone. And, it's better than ever.

We first ate Simon's food at L'Enclume in May 2011 and were smitten. Back then, when so many top end restaurants relied upon luxury ingredients like foie gras and lobster to do the heavy lifting, Simon had a way of finding the remarkable in the everyday and the everyday lived in fields and grew in hedgerows on his doorstep, right there in Cumbria. Much came from his own farm. The sense of 'belonging' at L'Enclume was then, and remains now, remarkable. In turn L'Enclume won The Good Food Guide best restaurant in the UK for 5 years running, scoring a perfect 10.

The original Roganic also opened in 2011 (where do the years go?) and was, at the time, billed as a 'two year pop-up'. And that's what happened, two years on, it popped back down again; it was greatly missed. In the intervening period, several trips to Cartmel were made, and thoroughly enjoyed of course, but if you live in London, Cartmel is not a place you can really pop to for lunch (though it can just about be done). Marylebone however is a different matter.

Fund raising charity dinner with Simon Rogan at his London development kitchen Aulis. Have Simon personally cook you dinner. Visit our homepage for more details on how you can be there.

The new Roganic is a more permanent affair and that's reflected in the quality of the finish, everything's a little more refined, yet the restaurant remains approachable as ever and it's wonderful to see many former Roganic employees back in situ including GM James Foster as well as Head Chef Oliver Marlow.

In terms of menus, at lunch, you have a choice between tasting menus (for the full SImon Rogan experience) or the 'Set Business Lunch Menu' that allows for a three course lunch at a reasonable £35. The three course menu also provides for a much quicker turnaround time for those who cannot linger. On the set lunch menu on the day of my visit was the grilled salad with Westcombe (cheddar) and truffle (custard) to start, duck for the main and the strawberry and buttermilk dessert. The full tasting menu contains smaller versions of these dishes that are shown below.

Turning the dial up a notch or two, the full tasting menu shows extensively on the page but more often than not (intentionally) reveals very little about what you are to eat.  Stichelton, millet, black garlic for example is an artwork of a blue cheese and millet croquette with a black garlic emulsion piped on top. Everything has been carefully considered and here, as elsewhere, textures interact with taste, and visual impact matters, so yes, tweezers are at work throughout the meal. Really, I don't know why that bothers people so much, especially when the results are this stunning. A standout presentation is the mushroom wafer presented on woodland floor (see pictures below). 

Roganic has also got better even in its current iteration, for I admit, I'm lucky, it's not my first time here. Earlier this year, a very strong start by the Roganic team has been converted further into the current offering of something very special indeed. If the Americans have 'shock and awe,' Roganic has 'surprise and delight,' because that is what every dish elicits, a little wave of joy on seeing the dish followed by more delight on tasting. Even those who are afflicted with something of a jaded palette would surely find much here to love. The bread for example tastes like a gorgeous breakfast muffin (most guests request seconds), while the butter's hand rolled, for there are no shortcuts here. Every dish leaves its own mark on your taste memory, such as the grilled salad that comes with a truffle custard (and Westcombe cheddar), and a tomato consomme with sea trout and 'farm offerings' that I take to mean Simon's own farm - a garden in a bowl if there ever was one.

Towards the end of the savoury menu, the set seabass and duck (there are no real 'main courses' here), shy away from the earlier more clever constructions to let the quality of the ingredients shine and allow the perfection of the cooking take a bow, Roganic demonstrating that they can play every card in the deck.  


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​If you already like Simon Rogan's food and ethos, you will simply love Roganic. If you've not tried his food yet, you really are missing something special and you should immediately get yourself to L'Enclume or Roganic to rectify the situation. Head Chef Olly Marlowe does a fabulous job delivering on Simon's vision and Roganic in turn feels properly connected to L'Enclume as a sister restaurant, and that is something the Roganic team can be very proud of. 

While some restaurants deliver meals, others deliver a little magic. My sense too that day was that other diners were similarly thrilled, with an adjacent table on their very first visit to the new Roganic, having been fans of the old, expressing the same surprise and delight that I was feeling. London's restaurant scene is rich and diverse, but Roganic occupies a special, unique, place within it, a perfect offering of modern British cooking.  

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pear, elderflower, chervil
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peas, ox tongue, mint
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stichelton, millet, black garlic
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sabayon with puffed rice as part of the 'mushroom, yeast oil' dish
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mushroom, yeast oil
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bread and butter
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almond, scallop, apple
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tomato, sea trout, farm offerings
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grilled salad, westcombe, truffle
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cabbage, crab, horseradish, chicken
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seabass, sweetcorn, cucumber
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dry aged cornish duck
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peach, fig leaf, apple marigold
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strawberry, buttermilk, yoghurt
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left, GM James Foster, right, Head Chef Oliver Marlow
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The Greenway Hotel, Cheltenham

16/8/2018

2 Comments

 
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Gloucestershire is generally well served with good restaurants and historically, the county has held more Michelin stars than the whole of Wales. And in a move that has been somewhat below the radar, a couple of years back, The Greenway Hotel in Cheltenham took on Marcus McGuinness as Head Chef, which must be regarded as a significant coup for both the hotel and the region. If the name rings a bell, Marcus featured on Great British Menu some years back, but more significantly, was Claude Bosi's Head Chef at Hibiscus in London. He has also worked with David Everitt-Matthias at Cheltenham's 2 Michelin Star Le Champignon Sauvage.

The Greenway Hotel & Spa, to give it its full name, is very much in the Cotswold country manor house genre and delivers up Cotswold stone outside, while inside, it's all oak panelling, stone fireplaces and soft carpets - you get the idea. But with Marcus in the kitchen, the food offering, while appropriately classical for the setting is also going to have contemporary twists and is always going to be stunning. For my lunch there, Marcus treated me to a tasting menu that is not yet available to the public, but across menus, most of the individual dishes were, and all of the food was fantastic.

There's some massive flavours here, like Confit Isle of Wight Tomato with Salted Pilchards, which delivered an astonishing intensity. Secretly I want to bottle it and use it as a condiment for it makes every relish you've ever tried pale in comparison, and nothing would ever be bland again. Over the blogging years, I can't remember anything quite like this before. There was some classic pairings also such as Roast Isle of Skye Scallop, Black Pudding and Cauliflower that are expertly delivered. The main course duck meanwhile came in two parts: the glazed breast with cherries and smoked eel again packs a punch, but it is the "Duck Rolly Polly" that has duck leg rolled in brioche that steals the show, with sweet and savoury notes that almost confuse you as to what part of the menu you're enjoying. This is a new dish that Marcus was about to launch on the main menu, finally being happy that he's got it right, and he has, it's beautifully unique and a real winner.

Looking after front of house was Ben who did a great job, but his colleagues perhaps needed a reminder that they are in the hospitality business. But I also enjoyed the fact that The Greenway's wine list has a decent selection of half bottles at good prices allowing you to drink well without anchoring you to a full bottle and the absence of variety that can bring.

Marcus is a massive talent and he earned his stripes heading up the pass at two star restaurants, and all that technical skill, innovation and attention to detail continues here and really marks the food as special. I have eaten at The Greenway several times now and absolutely love doing so, it's always good. The restaurant is open to non residents but, and this is only a personal opinion, it does not feel like the owners of the hotel are seeking to push the restaurant on a wider stage. It would be more than easy to visit Cheltenham, research top restaurants in the area and never even discover that the restaurant at The Greenway has one of the country's leading chefs at the helm. And that's a shame. But if you do visit Cheltenham and you do want to eat something remarkable, keep The Greenway in mind. Hidden gem is a somewhat overused term, but Marcus at the Greenway is surely that and deserves substantially great recognisiton.  
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Confit Isle of Wight Tomato, Salted Pilchards
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Iced Chicken Liver Parfait, Garden Figs and Preserved Laef
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Roast Isle of Skye Scallop, Black Pudding and Cauliflower
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Cornish Turbot, Artichokes, Dryaad's Saddle
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Glazed Goosnargh Duck, Cherries and Smoked Eel
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"Duck Rolly-Polly"
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Wild Lime Parfait, Candied Strawberry and Thai Basil
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Roast Nectarine and Elderflow
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Grant Hawthorne @ Great Guns Social

7/8/2018

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Great Guns Social, SE1
Grant Hawthorne is currently the Chef in Residence at Great Guns Social, which is located on Southwark Bridge Road in Borough, SE1. Inside a former pub, the drinks offering is cocktails (which we enjoyed several of), wine and craft beer (mostly) while the food offering changes via kitchen residencies. Grant will be serving his menu through to the end of August and he invited us to his temporary home to try his menu.

If the name Grant Hawhorne is not familiar to you, you might better know him through his increasingly popular peri-peri sauce, African Volcano and his weekend Maltby Street market presence. At Great Guns Social, per the website's description, Grant's menu is, 'an exploration of Southern-style cooking the world over; from Southern America to South Africa and Southern Europe.' What you might reasonably guess then, with the focus on Southern food across a range of styles, there's going to be a big comfort factor on offer. 

In that respect it is excellent. While the mains offer much that is tempting, two things really jumped out to us. There's a burger with 18 hour slow roast pulled pork. Yes, hello. And it's Southern food so the other choice of Southern Fried chicken with spiced mayo leaps off the page. Good choices for sure, though embracing the wider style of Southern, there's also (among other things) 'Mozambique style grilled baby chicken and a burger with 'treacle cured African Volcano streaky bacon,' which is sure to have a fan club. It's super enjoyable food, it's what you want, and what you expect from Southern, and with the two mains costing £11 (chicken) and £14 (burger/pork), nor does it break the bank.

Pan fried chicken livers and rissois (Mozambique style crab croquette) offered interest and variety as starters (BBQ chicken wings are there too if you can't get enough chicken), while we also got to sample a rather special smoked wild sea trout. If you don't know or haven't guessed by now, Grant was born in and grew up in South Africa, so a dessert of chocolate Cape Malva pudding is pitch perfect and a whole lot lighter than its appearance gives on, and the other ordered dessert was coffee flavoured custard flan.  

But what impressed throughout the starters/mains was Grant's balanced use of spices and heat to add soul to the food rather than push through a more aggressive heat for the sake of heat approach to catch some headlines. The outcome was a thoroughly enjoyable lunch, food that makes you happy, and that surely is the purpose of a menu such as this. It hits the brief and you leave with a smile. Grant is in residence until the end of August so catch him while you can.
 
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Pan fried chicken livers, toasted croute
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Rissois: Mozambique style crab croquette
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Southern fried chicken with spicy mayo
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Beef burger with 18 hour slow roasted pulled pork, Emmental cheese
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Portuguese coffee flavoured custard flan
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Cape Malva with chocolate
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Patty & Bun: Simply the Best (?)

3/8/2018

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I know what you're thinking: why the hell are they putting Patty & Bun on the blog (again)? Not only was Patty & Bun an established feature of the burger scene when we stopped blogging four years ago, but P&B had featured twice on the blog by then also. So what gives?

While this blog has never been shy to feature a Michelin starred restaurant or two, we also love a good burger and we recognise that each has a time and a place. So the answer is this: in the four years we have been away, we still haven't found a burger we enjoy more, we simply adore Patty & Bun.

Now, we need to expand on our explanation a little more. First off, in our absentee years, P&B went from one site to, it seems from their website, 13. In word association games, when I hear the word 'expansion', my immediate comeback is 'reduction in quality,' yet somehow P&B seem to have avoided this trap. In the past year, I have eaten at the original (James St), but also regularly enjoyed Liverpool St (where this post came to life) and their Soho branch also. Not only is there no discernible difference that we've noticed between branches, but nor has there been any drop in standards over time. The consistency is fabulous.

Now, granted, we have not been chasing burgers these past four years, but in a crowded market place, we still feel that nobody does it better. To us, it is the gold standard of burgers, or might we say, the Ari-Gold standard of burgers! For us, a burger, like an M-star meal, is a treat not a staple and we have no wish to waste a treat on a bad burger and in that respect, P&B never lets us down. And that must be true because I underlined the word never, and I never underline words in blog posts.

We recognise that there are many burger-blogs out there, and that is great. We do not seek to be that however, so we will never offer you an ultimate guide to burgers, but, we do expect burgers to be an ongoing feature of this blog in its phoenix like rejuvenation, and it is here that we nail our colours to the mast: for us, P&B remains the burger to beat. That is the challenge, and in our future burger blog posts, P&B will feature as our benchmark reference point. I think I am going to enjoy this. 

Feel free to send us suggestions of where you think does a better burger and over time, we will seek to try them (all) out.      
We are now on Instagram, please do follow us:
 www.instagram.com/criticalcouple/
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Ari Gold cheesburger
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the moment I see this little wrap of loveliness, I get all excited
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Sitting in my seat at the Liverpool Street branch of P&B, as I look out the window, across the road is the golden arches. While I recognise that McDonald's have a very different proposition, their global daily traffic is estimated at 62 million people, I still want to scream 'why' at the people going there instead of here. On the plus side, if 62 million people tried to visit P&B in a day, the queues would be horrendous, so a little part of me is also secretly happy.
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We're all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars. (Oscar Wilde)