Giorgio Locatelli must be considered one of the most famous names in Italian food here in the UK. As well as TV and cook books, he's also been associated with some of London's top Italian eateries of recent years: Zafferano (where he earned his first Michelin star), Spighetta and Spiga. When he opened Locanda Locatelli in 2002, his first independent venture, the Michelin star was awarded within a year and nine years on, Locanda Locatelli is still a draw. On our Friday lunchtime visit, every table was full.

With four of us around the table and with only one order replicated, we got to see a lot of the food on offer. Our overall verdict was that Locanda Locatelli served a great meal, some plates offering some real highs, only a couple of so-so dishes and overall, fully deserving of its Michelin star and a restaurant we'd happily return to. Against key competitors, fellow Michelin star luminaries Zafferano and Semplice, there's little between them from an enjoyment perspective and which you'd choose to visit for a great Italian meal is more likely to be determined by the part of town you happen to be in.

Deciding on the full Antipasti and Pasta run in, we had a round of salt cod (x2), ox tongue, and razor clam and tomato soup to begin the meal. The ox tongue we considered to be amongst the best of its kind and the razor clam and tomato was also well received. On the salt cod dish, the tomato, nicely dressed watercress and the polenta crisp were excellent for taste and texture but the salt cod itself was a little underwhelming lacking depth of flavour.

On the pasta course to follow, the meaty tortellini came in a beautiful clear broth and was nicely comforting. The 'home made' pasta contained in all of these dishes was excellent as you might expect in a restaurant of this calibre, but it is always nice when it actually is. But while the tagliatelle itself was beautifully done, the 'kid goat ragu' lacked intensity being instead a little thin, almost watery. However, the strozzapreti with tomato, salami and olives was without fault as was the malfatti of ricotta, walnut and aubergine.

The main courses were all executed well. The monkfish was tender to cut and the walnut and caper sauce stood up well to the big fish. Both the veal dishes were greatly enjoyed by our friends at the table and with the veal plates and the monkfish, it can be seen that this is the kind of restaurant that serves (quality) ingredients in a bold way, with big flavourful sauces to satisfy and comfort rather than deliver artwork plates.

The desserts were also excellent all around the table but the real highlight was the saffron and chocolate fondant that when cut into, just dribbled the liquid yellow saffron centre onto the plate. It really delivered on the promise and provided a very original dessert option. The chocolate plate was more traditional but nicely worked a variety of chocolate textures onto the plate. Tiramisu is obviously a classic and was delivered as such with no real tampering while the Cannoli offered a cleaner fresher prospect if all this chocolate is overwhelming. 

Locanda Locatelli provided an excellent meal across the menu. It's not a 'cheap' menu however with antipasti courses at the £12-14 level and main courses at the £30 level, easy enough then to run up £100 a head once drink and service are wrapped in. This is a small (but admittedly, only small) premium to say Semplice, and for sure, it's a stylish venue in an expensive part of town. That said, if we want great Italian food but without wanting to dig quite so deep into our pockets, new challengers like Zucca with antipasti priced below £5 and main courses at around £15 delivers a very competitive offering that makes it a genuinely attractive alternative. Locanda Locatelli though has been open almost a decade and held a Michelin star for most of that time and it's that combination of quality assurance and comfortable surrounds that you're paying for.


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Related links: Zafferano

Related links: Semplice

Related links: Zucca