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Admiral Codrington: more than just burgers

14/4/2012

6 Comments

 
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Fred Smith is no longer Head Chef but is now a consultant for the Admiral Codrington 

Fred Smith at the Admiral Codrington is becoming quite famous for his burgers and a trip there to sample these was long overdue. When Fred did a Burger Monday, it sold out in 5 minutes leading to a unique extended run, Burger Tuesday such is the respect his burgers now command. And with the past week seeing much Twitter excitement around his latest creation, a 'Double Cheese Stack Burger', The Admiral Codrington has been at the front of our minds. So when we found ourselves in Chelsea, hungry, and with a couple of hours to kill, dropping in seemed like the thing to do.

Now, the Admiral Codrington is what we'd call 'a proper boozer' and if it's a pint and a packet of peanuts that you want, that's available right there in the front of the pub. At the back of the bar however is a separate dining room, complete with retractable glass roof where Fred can be seen in the kitchen working hard to keep his many hungry customers satisfied.

The menu is extensive but a step above the usual pub fare. What's more, looking at the choice of steaks, the menu informs that the steaks are 'aged in house' and that they are sourced from O'Shea the butchers, both pointers to the fact that this is a pub/restaurant that really does care about the food quality.

And so to the starters where we sampled three from the menu: Burrata, Datterini Tomatoes, Basil Oil; Chilli Salt Squid, Green Chilli, Coriander; and Loch Duart Salmon Ceviche, Jalapenos, Lime. These were all simply brilliant and seemed to convey just what the food at the Admiral Cod is all about. First, great ingredients: the burrata was absolutely fantastic and the tomatoes packing concentrated flavour. Second therefore, when you have great ingredients in classic combinations, you don't need to do anything too fancy (no foams here then). These dishes, just as they are, really hit the spot and Fred brings the ingredients together in well judged balance so that the flavours really work together to excite. This was a really good start to the meal.

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the restaurant at the Admiral Codrington
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Chilli Salt Squid, Green Chilli, Coriander
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Burrata, Datterini Tomatoes, Basil Oil
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Loch Duart Salmon Ceviche, Jalapenos, Lime
For the mains, we had to try the burger, and seeing how there was a special on the menu (the double stack cheeseburger), well, we had to really. Part of the success of Fred's burgers is the quality of meat used in them, again sourced from O'Shea, together with spot on cooking. The cheese has Fred's secret infusion to give it a little extra and this particular burger is dressed with its own sauce made from tomato sauce, mayo, cooked onions, chopped pickles and pickle juice. Eating this giant stacked burger is a messy and satisfying experience.

If you want to catch one of Fred's specials, be aware that they are only available on the lunchtime menu and as specials, are of course subject to change. Also worth noting, the lunch menu is served throughout the Codrington but dinner is served in the restaurant only. 

Back to the food where things get even better. Hand cut chunky chips with it were great but a side of macaroni cheese was awesome. You could smell the cheese before you even cut into the well crusted top and the addition of smoked bacon into the mac 'n' cheese took it to another level. We've lost count of the places since we started this blog that have served us an oh so bland mac 'n' cheese but Fred's is memorable for all the right reasons. 
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Double cheese stack burger
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as above
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Three cheese macaroni
If you exclude restaurants that pretend to be pubs (think Hand & Flowers), the Admiral Codrington provides its customers with what we think the best pub food should be. It's a fantastic offering centred around good ingredients and a chef that cares passionately about food; if the Cod were anywhere close to where we live, I'm sure we would have seats there with our name on. 

It's great that Fred has become famous for his burger but the revelation of our visit there was that the Admiral Cod is about much more than just burgers. The burger is great but competes in a crowded field, meanwhile the brilliant Burrata, the Salmon Ceviche and the Mac 'n' Cheese stand out in our minds as equally compelling dishes that elevated our meal at the Cod to a real foodie treat leaving us wanting to try the rest of the menu.


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related links

The Admiral Codrington website

Chef Fred Smith on Twitter

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Admiral Codrington on Urbanspoon
6 Comments
@Gastro1 link
14/4/2012 04:04:14 pm

Really great review of the Ad Cod - a great pub with really first class food made with well sourced ingredients superbly executed by Fred Smith and his brigade.

Reply
Alan spedding (cumbriafoodie ) link
15/4/2012 07:32:36 am

My god....Talk about torturing someone when they`re on a diet , Jeeez.I would kill for that lot right now.

Reply
chunk
15/4/2012 10:39:31 am

something looks very overbright or oversaturated about the burger and bun's colour. Was it the use of a flash or some 'editing'?

Reply
thecriticalcouple
15/4/2012 03:31:42 pm

chunk,

we did use the flash as the sun was in front of us and the restaurant had cleared out by then so there was no one to bother. any over brightness is strictly my fault.

Reply
Burgerlover
19/4/2012 04:03:29 am

I see they comped the meal so you had to write a nice review... right??

Reply
thecriticalcouple
19/4/2012 09:30:23 am

te-he. takes more than a free burger for us to compromise our blog. we are however happy to provide the disclosure box so that as a blog, we provide market leading levels of transparency so that you can make your own judgements. If you wish discount the review accordingly, that is very much your right.

Reply



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