I don't know exactly how big Bruno Loubet's shoulders are but the burden placed upon them seems in many respects impossibly large. In the National Restaurant Awards, Bistrot Bruno Loubet came third, behind only The Ledbury and The Fat Duck. Hibiscus was by comparison fourth. If you really want to chuckle, Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester was 46th. This is a result for the Bistrot so how excited are we about eating there today? (answer, lots). The corollary of expectation is the potential for disappointment but we assume it's ranked third for a reason and we find it hard to temper our enthusiasm.
The excitement around Chef Bruno Loubet is understandable really given stints at both La Tante Claire as well as Le Manoir but he's chosen to avoid the obvious and do his own thing; the result would appear to be paying off. Recognition in the aforementioned restaurant awards is one facet and a very full bustling restaurant is another. What's more, the restaurant is alive with the atmosphere that only genuine enjoyment delivers and there's not an empty seat in the house; the place sparkles.
What he didn't get this January (and to be honest, we don't know whether he cares or not) is a Michelin star. There again, nor did former mentor Koffman (who certainly doesn't care) with his Knightsbridge venture of that name. When we consider Petersham Nurseries recent elevation (see The Skinny Bib's post here), our Michelin interest wanes.
The food though in both Koffmann's and Bistrot Bruno Loubet remains exceptional and plays to the prevailing theme of recognising the density of flavours that can be extracted from 'lesser' cuts, eschewing say rack of lamb for best end of neck. Fillet steak, no chance, oxtail rather. Both my starter (homemade guinea fowl boudin blanc) and the day's special starter, a charcuterie plate also put you in mind of Bar Boulud up to this point (though you wont find a burger on the mains). Against that back drop then, the trends in cooking, demand and recognition seem to spring coherently into life, and Michelin star or no, this is a sexy menu: the only difficult thing is deciding.
For the starters we chose Winter salmon tartare with grilled sourdough bread, and, as noted, the guinea fowl boudin blanc with pumpkin barley. The boudin blanc was excellent. Super silky smooth but packed with flavour. Had Heston delivered the same but made it round and coated it in orange (see Dinner), you'd be lucky to hear the end of it from critics or bloggers alike. The salmon tartare was delicious but unusual. With cous cous, North African spices and burst of pomegranate seeds, this was truly a winter tartare, but also a highly original take on the dish.
The excitement around Chef Bruno Loubet is understandable really given stints at both La Tante Claire as well as Le Manoir but he's chosen to avoid the obvious and do his own thing; the result would appear to be paying off. Recognition in the aforementioned restaurant awards is one facet and a very full bustling restaurant is another. What's more, the restaurant is alive with the atmosphere that only genuine enjoyment delivers and there's not an empty seat in the house; the place sparkles.
What he didn't get this January (and to be honest, we don't know whether he cares or not) is a Michelin star. There again, nor did former mentor Koffman (who certainly doesn't care) with his Knightsbridge venture of that name. When we consider Petersham Nurseries recent elevation (see The Skinny Bib's post here), our Michelin interest wanes.
The food though in both Koffmann's and Bistrot Bruno Loubet remains exceptional and plays to the prevailing theme of recognising the density of flavours that can be extracted from 'lesser' cuts, eschewing say rack of lamb for best end of neck. Fillet steak, no chance, oxtail rather. Both my starter (homemade guinea fowl boudin blanc) and the day's special starter, a charcuterie plate also put you in mind of Bar Boulud up to this point (though you wont find a burger on the mains). Against that back drop then, the trends in cooking, demand and recognition seem to spring coherently into life, and Michelin star or no, this is a sexy menu: the only difficult thing is deciding.
For the starters we chose Winter salmon tartare with grilled sourdough bread, and, as noted, the guinea fowl boudin blanc with pumpkin barley. The boudin blanc was excellent. Super silky smooth but packed with flavour. Had Heston delivered the same but made it round and coated it in orange (see Dinner), you'd be lucky to hear the end of it from critics or bloggers alike. The salmon tartare was delicious but unusual. With cous cous, North African spices and burst of pomegranate seeds, this was truly a winter tartare, but also a highly original take on the dish.
Winter salmon tartare with grilled sourdough bread
guinea fowl boudin blanc with pumpkin barley
For the mains it was the same story, huge flavours. With three at the table, we had the day's special, Icelandic cod on mashed potatoes with red peppers, together with Roast rabbit, crumbled with almond and 'forgotten' root vegetables, and Braised oxtail stuffed with cabbage, Vichy carrots, and onion and bread sauce.
The oxtail, like Koffmann's beef cheeks, are full on with the addition in both cases of an endlessly dark rich sauce (as if the oxtail itself could ever possibly fall short). The rabbit was also hugely rich, comfort food in many ways but with a French heritage touch. Indeed, these are not complex dishes in any way but they are satisfying and in that sense, with friendly wait staff, a Clerkenwell location and a boutique hotel (The Zetter), it fits the space perfectly and delivers a great meal at an affordable price.
The oxtail, like Koffmann's beef cheeks, are full on with the addition in both cases of an endlessly dark rich sauce (as if the oxtail itself could ever possibly fall short). The rabbit was also hugely rich, comfort food in many ways but with a French heritage touch. Indeed, these are not complex dishes in any way but they are satisfying and in that sense, with friendly wait staff, a Clerkenwell location and a boutique hotel (The Zetter), it fits the space perfectly and delivers a great meal at an affordable price.
Icelandic cod on mashed potatoes with red peppers
Roast rabbit, crumbled with almond and 'forgotten' root vegetables
Braised oxtail stuffed with cabbage, Vichy carrots, and onion and bread sauce
Valrhona chocolate Marquise, caramel and salted butter ice cream
Given that some of the best restaurants in the UK (including The Square and Le Champignon Sauvage) rank below it in the 2010 awards, you can't help but ask yourself whether the third place is fully justified. In our opinion, the answer is no but also, it doesn't really matter. This is great food and you take it as you find it. It pretends to be nothing more than what it is but what it is is special enough to warrant it as great allowing you to sit back and enjoy. What's more, when the bill comes, you will still be smiling as prices are not prohibitive (on food or wine). There's an easy charm to Bistrot Bruno Loubet that seduces across the offering; put another way, we're smitten.
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