Adding to the stunning location of Driftwood, great for both views and ingredients, Chris Eden is also a Cornish man through and through, but while born and bred in the area, he's nevertheless worked extensively in London, most notably with Chris Galvin, and with Phil Howard and Brett Graham at The Square. Such a background has given Chris the best of educations in the kitchen, but it's his love of Cornwall that brought him back home, and a love of Cornish produce that is evident on the plate. We're quite thrilled about this because we have consistently said that Cornwall is home to some of the country's best ingredients, so where better to enjoy them?
And scallops is how we start the meal for Chris is keen to show me how fresh scallops come at Driftwood, playing to the strengths of his location. These are just a few hours out the water, and it's perfect, served here with coco beans, apple and cobb nut. Worth noting early on, throughout the menu, textures form an important part of every dish.
Having earlier said the crispy lamb was the event of the meal, I may want to change my mind now and say the tart. I'm undoubtedly spoiled. Finally it's a mille feuille of quince and chestnut which has such a wonderful buttery and flaky pastry component that despite how full I was, I still cleared my plate.
Many readers of this blog no doubt take their summer holidays in Cornwall though I recognise that being, as it is, October now, the vacation season has long passed. But if you do find yourself down in Cornwall before the year end, or are planning a trip there next year, keep Driftwood in mind, for it is a stunning showcase of what Cornwall has to offer, and for anyone who loves food, it would be a waste of a trip to Cornwall if you don't visit Chef Chris Eden and his team while you're there.
Visit Driftwood Hotel website
Follow Chris Eden on Twitter @chrisedendrifty
Previously I visited: The Masons Arms, Devon
Next stop: Paul Ainsworth at Number 6 Restaurant, Padstow
Driftwood location map