Chef Chris Eden is doing Cornwall proud at the Driftwood Hotel, which is set against the stunning backdrop of the coastline around Portscatho, some five miles north east of Falmouth. Chris/Driftwood gained a Michelin star in 2011 making Driftwood one of only three in Cornwall to hold that award, the other two being Paul Ainsworth at Number 6 and Restaurant Nathan Outlaw. Having driven down to Driftwood from Devon, I have time to take in Lands End which is sadly disappointing (including their chewy Cornish pasties). I'm thrilled to say that there would be no disappointments of any kind at Driftwood, everything was first class.
Adding to the stunning location of Driftwood, great for both views and ingredients, Chris Eden is also a Cornish man through and through, but while born and bred in the area, he's nevertheless worked extensively in London, most notably with Chris Galvin, and with Phil Howard and Brett Graham at The Square. Such a background has given Chris the best of educations in the kitchen, but it's his love of Cornwall that brought him back home, and a love of Cornish produce that is evident on the plate. We're quite thrilled about this because we have consistently said that Cornwall is home to some of the country's best ingredients, so where better to enjoy them?
Adding to the stunning location of Driftwood, great for both views and ingredients, Chris Eden is also a Cornish man through and through, but while born and bred in the area, he's nevertheless worked extensively in London, most notably with Chris Galvin, and with Phil Howard and Brett Graham at The Square. Such a background has given Chris the best of educations in the kitchen, but it's his love of Cornwall that brought him back home, and a love of Cornish produce that is evident on the plate. We're quite thrilled about this because we have consistently said that Cornwall is home to some of the country's best ingredients, so where better to enjoy them?
Lands End is not that far away, shame it's a bit of a dump
It is one of the themes that is emerging from this trip already, London chefs may be able to buy in the best supply, but outside of London, chefs like Chris have strong personal relationships with the very source of the produce giving them their own edge. By way of example, so many restaurants claim 'hand dived scallops', and I'm sure I'm not the only one suspicious of this: are there really that many hand dived scallops available every day throughout the country? Chris meanwhile went to school with the diver that supplies his scallops, their provenance is therefore without doubt.
And scallops is how we start the meal for Chris is keen to show me how fresh scallops come at Driftwood, playing to the strengths of his location. These are just a few hours out the water, and it's perfect, served here with coco beans, apple and cobb nut. Worth noting early on, throughout the menu, textures form an important part of every dish.
And scallops is how we start the meal for Chris is keen to show me how fresh scallops come at Driftwood, playing to the strengths of his location. These are just a few hours out the water, and it's perfect, served here with coco beans, apple and cobb nut. Worth noting early on, throughout the menu, textures form an important part of every dish.
Sauteed hand dived scallops, coco beans, apple and cobb nut
I'm taken aback by the duck ballontine, it's stunning when it arrives at the table offering up traditional combinations with orange as well as the sweetness from the Pedro Ximenex emulsion and again on texture, some crunch from the honeycomb and meringue.
Duck ballotine, parfait and cured ham, Pedro Ximenez, Honeycomb and orange
With fishing such a big part of Cornish life, I'm expecting some great fish from Driftwood and I'm not disappointed, the seared John Dory being the first of two fish courses. The vanilla, lime and curry here have been carefully used, not overdone and the John Dory with the beautiful sear remains the star without question.
Seared John Dory, cauliflower, vanilla, lime and curry
Writing this blog almost two weeks after my trip to Cornwall, notes from the time have generally been essential, but I need no notes to remember just how good Chris's crispy shoulder of spring lamb was. I was interested to see what Chris would make of the lamb course because in our experience, even top restaurants can struggle to get good flavour coming through even when lamb is sourced impeccably Here however, it was stunning, everything you want lamb to be, and with the crisp edge to it also, this was for me the dish of the day.
Crispy shoulder of spring lamb, black garlic, celeriac, rosemary and pomme dauphine
More gifts from the sea, with sea bass and prawns next, again, beautifully done and while Chris in his enthusiasm seems to be edging my testing menu portion sizes ever larger, there's enough variety on the plate here to keep you coming back excitedly for more, but not so much that the dish is ever confused. And for those who like super smooth pomme purée, the picture below shows what a treat awaits.
roast sea bass, pomme puree, Mylor prawns, sweetcorn, radish and shellfish bisque
Ruby red cattle is an ancient native breed of cattle (well, for Devon at least) and provides beef that is amongst the best available in the UK in our opinion. I'm delighted (but not entirely surprised) to see it here on the menu. Again from memory, the featherblade croustillant is every bit a match for the more conventional and more expensive sirloin cut so offering the diner something a little different which to my mind, is always welcome.
Sirloin of Ruby Red beef, featherblade croustillant, girolles, hisppi cabbage, red wine jus
Cheese is local and of course lovely, but just want to point out how thrilled I was to see it served here with fresh honeycomb. Cheese and honey is such a winning combination I'm amazed that it is seen so little in restaurants.
Baronet, Cornish Blue, cider caramel, fresh honeycomb
A trio of desserts follow which, after all the lovely food, is far from necessary, but who doesn't love dessert and I can't resist what's offered. Spiced pineapple and toasted coconut meringue offers up sweetness and acidity and is the right dessert to be served first. But it's what next that again leaves a lasting impression, the malt and vanilla tart, it's so beautifully light and yet so delicate also, unsure whether it should float away or collapse under its own modest weight, but in the mouth, it's simply heaven. It reminds me in form of Marcus Wareing's custard tart which went through to the banquet in the GBM series and was served to the Queen. If the Queen ever comes to Driftwood then, Chris Eden has in his malt and vanilla tart a dessert fit to serve her.
Having earlier said the crispy lamb was the event of the meal, I may want to change my mind now and say the tart. I'm undoubtedly spoiled. Finally it's a mille feuille of quince and chestnut which has such a wonderful buttery and flaky pastry component that despite how full I was, I still cleared my plate.
Having earlier said the crispy lamb was the event of the meal, I may want to change my mind now and say the tart. I'm undoubtedly spoiled. Finally it's a mille feuille of quince and chestnut which has such a wonderful buttery and flaky pastry component that despite how full I was, I still cleared my plate.
Spiced pineapple carpaccio, toasted coconut meringue, lemongrass and lime sorbet
Malt and vanilla tart, candied pine nuts, honeycomb and orange
Mille Feille of quince and chestnut
the view from the hotel
I was slightly worried writing this post, with so much time having elapsed since I was there, and so many meals eaten since, could I remember? Would I know what to write? But as soon as I thought about the meal, the lamb and malt and vanilla tart were easily recalled and everything else soon returned to mind also because it was a memorable meal for all the right reasons. I remember how full I was (very) but how much I was enjoying everything (so I carried on eating). I remember great wines and charming service, and getting to meet Chris after so I could thank him for the meal and talk about what he's achieved at Driftwood.
Many readers of this blog no doubt take their summer holidays in Cornwall though I recognise that being, as it is, October now, the vacation season has long passed. But if you do find yourself down in Cornwall before the year end, or are planning a trip there next year, keep Driftwood in mind, for it is a stunning showcase of what Cornwall has to offer, and for anyone who loves food, it would be a waste of a trip to Cornwall if you don't visit Chef Chris Eden and his team while you're there.
Visit Driftwood Hotel website
Follow Chris Eden on Twitter @chrisedendrifty
Previously I visited: The Masons Arms, Devon
Next stop: Paul Ainsworth at Number 6 Restaurant, Padstow
Driftwood location map
Many readers of this blog no doubt take their summer holidays in Cornwall though I recognise that being, as it is, October now, the vacation season has long passed. But if you do find yourself down in Cornwall before the year end, or are planning a trip there next year, keep Driftwood in mind, for it is a stunning showcase of what Cornwall has to offer, and for anyone who loves food, it would be a waste of a trip to Cornwall if you don't visit Chef Chris Eden and his team while you're there.
Visit Driftwood Hotel website
Follow Chris Eden on Twitter @chrisedendrifty
Previously I visited: The Masons Arms, Devon
Next stop: Paul Ainsworth at Number 6 Restaurant, Padstow
Driftwood location map
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