We’ve discussed the restaurant style in our previous blog so this time round we’ll concentrate solely on the food.
With our compliments to the chef he declared it ‘a simple dish’ but our second experience at L’Atelier confirms something we thought first time round, that is, the sheer exceptional quality of the ‘simpler dishes’ has given us considerably more joy than the ‘more complex’ dishes here have managed to achieve. Indeed, complexity can hide many sins and mask inadequacies on many levels but simple dishes have nowhere to hide and if it’s not great, is soon found out. Accordingly, there’s as much or even perhaps more genius in doing something so simple so well and to our mind and taste, the real pleasure at L’Atelier is in this purity.
The quail breast is another dish from the real tasting menu and comes with the famous pomme purée and a shaving of summer truffle. The breast is accompanied by a confit leg. We both though found new delight as we cut through the quail breast and saw the foie gras peeking out, brilliantly done. Between us we finished the dish and almost inconceivably I found myself spooning a last mouthful from the side bowl of pomme purée onto my plate. This potato dish is so smooth and so full of butter that apparently, one customer knowingly and deliberately ordered the pomme purée for dessert.