The Balmoral Hotel is an Edinburgh landmark. Built in 1902, it's grand in the old sense of the word, and imposing too. Topped off by a magnificent clock tower, the hotel dominates its surroundings in Princes Street. Unsurprisingly then, as a five star hotel, it would seek a restaurant to exude a similar quality and boast a star of its own, namely a Michelin star, and that restaurant is of course Number One.
With its own entrance on Princes Street, we proceed downstairs to the restaurant, and while the interior is classical and elegant, even sporting a few blinded windows above the banquettes on one wall, it can never fully escape the feel of being a basement restaurant which can often settle things there and then. The good news is however that the food is excellent and with service to match, those first impressions are not on this occasion lasting impressions.
From the start, part of that recovery was the table at which we were seated: an expansive table for our party of four, affording each of us the space to relax and feel comfortable, aided yet further by the fact that our central table also enjoys an adequate distance between tables, bravo to Number One for this and not cramming us in like a Parisian/Knightsbridge bistro despite its own prime location.
Both a tasting menu and an a la carte is offered though as a table for four with varied prefences, a la carte is preferred. Before our choices arrive however, we are treated with canapes and bread. For the canapes, we have a haggis bon bon, confit rabbit, some ricotta and a smoked haddock fish cake. Nice enough.
The bread basket is literally that, the bread brought to the table in loaf form, six varieties (including rye, red pepper and olives and rosemary and sea salt) and cut to order at the table; individual butter pots are also a nice touch. The bread is also very tasty. And as an amuse, a tomato gazpacho, West coast crab and frozen cucumber is presented to the table. The crab is fresh, wonderfully textured, is complimented well by the tomato gazpacho and combined, offers a well conceived, clear and refreshing flavours. An encouraging start.
With its own entrance on Princes Street, we proceed downstairs to the restaurant, and while the interior is classical and elegant, even sporting a few blinded windows above the banquettes on one wall, it can never fully escape the feel of being a basement restaurant which can often settle things there and then. The good news is however that the food is excellent and with service to match, those first impressions are not on this occasion lasting impressions.
From the start, part of that recovery was the table at which we were seated: an expansive table for our party of four, affording each of us the space to relax and feel comfortable, aided yet further by the fact that our central table also enjoys an adequate distance between tables, bravo to Number One for this and not cramming us in like a Parisian/Knightsbridge bistro despite its own prime location.
Both a tasting menu and an a la carte is offered though as a table for four with varied prefences, a la carte is preferred. Before our choices arrive however, we are treated with canapes and bread. For the canapes, we have a haggis bon bon, confit rabbit, some ricotta and a smoked haddock fish cake. Nice enough.
The bread basket is literally that, the bread brought to the table in loaf form, six varieties (including rye, red pepper and olives and rosemary and sea salt) and cut to order at the table; individual butter pots are also a nice touch. The bread is also very tasty. And as an amuse, a tomato gazpacho, West coast crab and frozen cucumber is presented to the table. The crab is fresh, wonderfully textured, is complimented well by the tomato gazpacho and combined, offers a well conceived, clear and refreshing flavours. An encouraging start.
tomato gazpacho, West coast crab and frozen cucumber
For the starters, two proved popular: mushroom soup, pied bleu, chicken boudin, parmentier potato, together with Scottish lobster, leek puree, asparagus and shellfish foam. The lobster, presented out the shell was perfectly cooked, wonderfully tender and gave the impression of being fully respected as a prestige ingredient. The star of the show here however could easily be considered the sea food beignets: lobster, crab, fish, shallots, deep fried and exhibiting simply fantastic taste and texture. The mushroom soup was also excellent, deeply flavoured also feeling satisfyingly textured in the mouth. The soup portion size was suited to those with hearty appetites but otherwise no complaints so far.
Scottish lobster, leek puree, asparagus and shellfish foam
mushroom soup, pied bleu, chicken boudin, parmentier potato
Three mains were sampled by the table (listed per the menu description): Monkfish, Jersey Royals, white asparagus, spiced squid; Aberfoyle beef fillet, Anna potato, sweetbread, Madeira jus; and Dover sole, langouistine, Israeli cous cous, confit fennel, choron sauce. The monkfish dish wasn't entirely it seemed in line with the menu description but it was nonetheless delicious. The monkfish was fantastically cooked, pulling easily apart, retaining moisture but with a touch of crisp and colour to the outside. The squid was crispy rather than spiced but either way, gave a nice additional textural contrast while the potato bed was not perhaps the Jersey Royals expected but mattered little. Overall, it was greatly enjoyed.
Anne, our gastronomic guest from the US was delighted with the beef fillet, loved the sweetbreads and while the jus was dimpled rather than lustrous, it detracted little from the taste. The sole dish offered an elegant plate with quality ingredients though flirted with being perhaps too simple/repetitive at times leaving the diner with the wish to change gear somewhat before the end but just about carried it off. Having sampled three of the six mains on offer, we were, despite some reservations on the sole dish, impressed with the solid execution and overall elegance of the mains.
Anne, our gastronomic guest from the US was delighted with the beef fillet, loved the sweetbreads and while the jus was dimpled rather than lustrous, it detracted little from the taste. The sole dish offered an elegant plate with quality ingredients though flirted with being perhaps too simple/repetitive at times leaving the diner with the wish to change gear somewhat before the end but just about carried it off. Having sampled three of the six mains on offer, we were, despite some reservations on the sole dish, impressed with the solid execution and overall elegance of the mains.
Aberfoyle beef fillet
Dover sole
Monkfish
A pre-dessert of chocolate, lime and chocolate sorbet on a bed of mango guides us towards the sweets where the table samples three of the four desserts offered: Slow cooked cherries, goat cheese sorbet, honey and fennel mousse; Gariguette strawberries, chocolate and pink peppercorn croustillant; and Baileys Cream, coffee granite, caramelised nuts and chocolate croquant. Desserts here seem well considered, not just an after thought and the strawberries (Gariguette being a sweet french variety) appeared on the plate cut but in their natural form as well as a sorbet, mousse and cheesecake together with the chocolate croustillant. Equally, the goat's cheese sorbet was special and provided an interesting savoury (albeit at the end of the day unequal) counterbalance to sweet cherries. We finished with petits fours.
chocolate, lime and chocolate sorbet
Baileys Cream, coffee granite, caramelised nuts and chocolate croquant
Slow cooked cherries, goat cheese sorbet
Gariguette strawberries, chocolate and pink peppercorn croustillant
petits fours
Overall, this was an accomplished meal by Number One where both ambition and delivery seemed perfectly pitched to modestly exceed previsit expectations that are an inevitable byproduct when you book a table at a Michelin starred restaurant in such a prestigious hotel. For sure, it was not as daring as say 21212 or original as Mark Greenaway at Hawke and Hunter but we suspect they have an eye to their audience, guests at The Balmoral, who appreciate a more timeless offering.
The bill too was reasonable enough, the a la carte being £62 for three course though with the amuse, pre dessert and petit fours, it can be considered six courses if you like to call it that way. Service was knowledgeable, enthusiastic and friendly so nor can we ask for more there. Three and a half hours after sitting down, we left the restaurant comfortably full, happy with the food (and the bill) and feeling that we had enjoyed an excellent evening: everything then you would hope you should take away from dining out. Recommended.
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The bill too was reasonable enough, the a la carte being £62 for three course though with the amuse, pre dessert and petit fours, it can be considered six courses if you like to call it that way. Service was knowledgeable, enthusiastic and friendly so nor can we ask for more there. Three and a half hours after sitting down, we left the restaurant comfortably full, happy with the food (and the bill) and feeling that we had enjoyed an excellent evening: everything then you would hope you should take away from dining out. Recommended.
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