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Roux at Parliament Square: original twists, delicious foods

3/6/2011

4 Comments

 
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Roux at Parliament Square has been open almost a year now and though there were a handful of press articles around the launch, Urbanspoon shows just two blog reviews of the restaurant since then, both in September of last year. That's not to say the place is empty, on our visit it was doing a thriving trade, but given its location and the preponderance of suit and ties, it's not the usual foodie crowd. And that seems a little bit of a shame because what they are doing at Roux at Parliament Square is rather good and it feels like something of a find.

The dining room itself has a sense of prestige and is comfortable rather than fashionable in the way that say Dinner by Heston is. Service is professional and efficient and the a la carte menu is presented on a single page but still offers an interesting and diverse range that hints at classic with a modern twist. As we decide, canapes of salmon crepe, and foie gras are excellent. 
 
We follow with an interesting prestarter of asparagus bavarois with parmesan foam offering good flavours while ticking the seasonal box. With four of us around the table we get to see a good selection of food today and our starters cover three of the six offered on the menu. We both go for the Ravioli of cornish crab, etuvee of leek, Avruga with Champagne veloute. This is simply excellent. The central ravioli is big (possibly too big?) but the pasta is thin, it's cooked nicely and consistently through and the Champagne veloute is delightful in its own right. The green herbs on top added a further dimension to the dish though the quantity placed on each showed marked variation. Small complaints though, this was a dish to be savoured.

Elsewhere around the table, the intriguing 'Cheese and Pickle': Salad of pickeld vegetables, Montgomery cheddar with oat and biscuit crumble caused everyone to exhale a little 'wow' as it was brought to the table given its wonderful presentation and offered a vegetarian starter that is sufficiently interesting to appeal to all. The ever reliable Tom Harrow (@winchapUK) declared it to be excellent.  

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Canapes
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Ravioli of cornish crab, etuvee of leek, Avruga with Champagne veloute
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'Cheese and Pickle'
Suckling pig on the menu is always tempting and here, the assiette came with Chardonnay vinegar pommes puree, roast apple, and mustard glazed onions. Not only was the pig cooked to perfection but the Chardonnay vinegar pomme puree provided an excellent acidity to the plate delivering something that overall was very special. A roasted and cured line caught sea bass, fresh peas, braised lettuce and shellfish jus gras was equally delicious and well balanced. Elsewhere around the table, the Anjou pigeon and foie gras 'Kiev', and the Halibut were similarly enjoyed. 
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Suckling pig
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roasted and cured line caught sea bass
A trio of desserts for the table: 1) Marinated pineapple, coconut jelly, coriander, kaffir lime granite, Espelette pepper 2) Blackberry and apple crumble souffle, green apple and Calvados sorbet, 3) Manjari chocolate cremosa, peanut and sea salt caramel parfait and caramelised banana. All fabulous, not overly sweet, a great use of textures and that Pineapple dish, simply wow. 

In the kitchen behind the excellence is Head Chef, Toby Stuart. Toby was previously at Galvin at Windows and one rests easy knowing that if Toby has been hand picked by Michel Roux Jnr, his cooking is going to be very good indeed. Toby's right hand man in the kitchen is sous chef Steve Groves who won Masterchef the Professionals in 2009 on which of course Michel Roux is also a judge. Perhaps then little wonder that what's come out of the kitchen today has been so good. 
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Pineapple
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Chocolate
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Blackberry and apple souffle
We liked everything that was put in front of us today. In describing the food on the Roux at Parliament Square website, they talk of 'light and inspired classic dishes 're-visited' using modern techniques and stylish presentation' and this is what they indeed achieved. Tom Harrow described the lunch as inventive, intense and zesty while also suggesting that Roux Westminster might be the most under rated restaurant in the capital. It was certainly a discovery for us and foodies are missing out if they ignore it at the expense of more fashionable eateries where the food is second to style. 

And despite the name above the door, this is not a Le Gavroche facsimilie and was never meant to be, which means instead that it is original in its own right and that's to be celebrated and enjoyed. Three courses chosen from the a la carte will cost around £50 which is more than fair given the quality of the offering. With a big name above the door but a less obvious choice of location, we weren't sure what we'd find at Roux, but what we did find was a good time centred around great food and we loved it.


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Related posts: Le Gavroche

Roux at Parliament Square on Urbanspoon
4 Comments
Madame Thermomix link
3/6/2011 08:48:23 am

Definitely going to head to Roux at Parliament Square! Thanks for this fair and well-written review of a fine establishment.

Reply
Claire Vernon link
8/6/2011 03:40:47 am

Really pleased to see you've reviewed Roux at Parliament Square. As you note, there's not been too much said/blogged about it. Food looks great. Will definitely try and visit over the next few weeks or so. Thanks very much.

Reply
Serenak105
8/9/2011 07:18:48 am

I had a really great lunch there a couple of weeks ago - and fantastic value as well. It is very underrated which is a shame, they are doing great things

Reply
darcy
29/4/2015 05:28:58 am

he is my uncle toby stuart my name is darcy stuart

Reply



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