Whatley Manor is a restored Cotswold manor house on the Wiltshire/Gloucestershire border that now serves as a luxury hotel. The main restaurant at Whatley Manor, aptly named The Dining Room, achieved its second Michelin star in January 2009 and is the principal reason for our visit there.
Turn off the narrow country lane and journey down the impressive driveway that's flanked by fields on each side and you reach the manor's perimeter wall, your car facing down a sturdy wooden double door. You wait only a fraction of time though before the door, of its own volition, swings open a welcome giving you access to the central courtyard and staff that are already standing at the reception entrance to greet you, take your luggage and park your car. It's nicely done and warms you to the manor right from the beginning. The staff at reception were super nice and super friendly throughout our stay.
The manor itself is absolutely beautiful and boasts several drawing rooms each with wood panelling and log fires. The bar has a fair range of drinks at reasonable prices and for those who like something healthier than fermented grape juice, there's a full service spa. Step outside and 12 acres of gardens are beautifully landscaped for your enjoyment and we even spotted a peacock joining us in taking a stroll.
The venue itself then is the real deal though sadly, the grandeur of the manor was not always matched by the level of care the hotel aspires to provide its guests and they often seemed to struggle with service despite the low occupancy level in January. We're willing to consider that they're running a skinny staff roster because it's January and maybe their big hitters are on a vacation during the quiet period but at times, the failings in service was unacceptable not only at this price point but in a broader sense for any hotel.
During breakfast service for example, when the waiter approached our table after ten minutes of being seated, we sought to order a pot of tea and Eggs Benedict. We were then told that he couldn't take our order because there were tables in front of us yet to order. In context, there were six other tables of two in a restaurant that seats over 50. Whatley Manor has three AA Rosettes, can they really not handle 14 people at breakfast? 45 minutes after sitting down for breakfast, our Eggs Benedict finally arrived; we assume they were having an off day though at least we got ours in the end, one other table was delivered the wrong order (which they declined) and were still sitting empty as we got up to leave.
There were other things too, the night before, Mrs CC nearly ended up wearing her Martini following a fumble by the waiter while after dinner, on returning to the drawing room for whiskies, after 10-15 minutes had passed, we ended up having to try to find a member of staff to place a drinks order. On a different day and night, things I'm sure would normally be very different.
Turn off the narrow country lane and journey down the impressive driveway that's flanked by fields on each side and you reach the manor's perimeter wall, your car facing down a sturdy wooden double door. You wait only a fraction of time though before the door, of its own volition, swings open a welcome giving you access to the central courtyard and staff that are already standing at the reception entrance to greet you, take your luggage and park your car. It's nicely done and warms you to the manor right from the beginning. The staff at reception were super nice and super friendly throughout our stay.
The manor itself is absolutely beautiful and boasts several drawing rooms each with wood panelling and log fires. The bar has a fair range of drinks at reasonable prices and for those who like something healthier than fermented grape juice, there's a full service spa. Step outside and 12 acres of gardens are beautifully landscaped for your enjoyment and we even spotted a peacock joining us in taking a stroll.
The venue itself then is the real deal though sadly, the grandeur of the manor was not always matched by the level of care the hotel aspires to provide its guests and they often seemed to struggle with service despite the low occupancy level in January. We're willing to consider that they're running a skinny staff roster because it's January and maybe their big hitters are on a vacation during the quiet period but at times, the failings in service was unacceptable not only at this price point but in a broader sense for any hotel.
During breakfast service for example, when the waiter approached our table after ten minutes of being seated, we sought to order a pot of tea and Eggs Benedict. We were then told that he couldn't take our order because there were tables in front of us yet to order. In context, there were six other tables of two in a restaurant that seats over 50. Whatley Manor has three AA Rosettes, can they really not handle 14 people at breakfast? 45 minutes after sitting down for breakfast, our Eggs Benedict finally arrived; we assume they were having an off day though at least we got ours in the end, one other table was delivered the wrong order (which they declined) and were still sitting empty as we got up to leave.
There were other things too, the night before, Mrs CC nearly ended up wearing her Martini following a fumble by the waiter while after dinner, on returning to the drawing room for whiskies, after 10-15 minutes had passed, we ended up having to try to find a member of staff to place a drinks order. On a different day and night, things I'm sure would normally be very different.
Pre dinner drinks are taken in the drawing room where canapes are also served. There's quail's egg and some foie gras which, in various forms would make several appearances over the course of the night. Together with the amuse bouche that was served at the table, it was okay but far from memorable.
The five course tasting menu we opted for presents several options over several courses and between us, we were able to access all the dishes with our choices. The two opening starters were i) textures of artichoke served with iced truffle and baby shoots, and ii) foie gras ballotine served with vanilla poached quince. Both dishes were disappointing. The artichoke offered a panna cotta, an artichoke and truffle ice cream and cooked artichoke together with greens without dressing. Overall, it lacked any oomph. Equally the ballotine of foie gras was simply that, nothing more, and there was a lot of it, two big slices, as if offering you a second slab of foie would be a compensation for the overall lack of adventure in the dish. This starter is not two star food and probably not even a one star, it's terribly disappointing.
textures of artichoke served with iced truffle and baby shoots
foie gras ballotine served with vanilla poached quince
The ubiquitous had dived scallop makes an appearance next, served here with a smoked glaze, almond puree and pickled clams. In our view, excessively sweet, though just the basic composition of the dish suggests that it would always struggle to be anything more than a well cooked scallop even at its best. It will be a theme of the meal as it is already: at the two star level we expect some kind of reinvention of classic dishes or ingredients, some new twist of surprise. At Hibiscus, the scallop was served with pork pie sauce that was just genius while at Pied a Terre, the scallop dish offered a riot of colour to dazzle the eye as well as tasting superb (click here to view) but nothing here set it apart from scallops served at lesser restaurants that should be a league or more below a kitchen awarded the accolade of two stars.
Scallop with a smoked glaze, almond puree and pickled clams
The story is, sadly, little changed with the main courses. The venison is described as roasted, dressed with its own sausage, 100% grated bitter chocolate and reduced shiraz wine. They also (strangely?) put a piece of bacon on the plate as if, having dressed the plate, they recognised that it just lacked something and they felt obliged to fill a hole. Venison fillet with venison sausage: where's the magic? Looking at the picture below, we think that most decent chefs would feel that they could reasonably produce this dish or something close. So what should two stars mean? Surely the unobtainable for mortals? Compare the much bolder move at Le Champignon Sauvage of venison served with pressed sweatbreads, tripe and tongue and the difference seems huge.
The alternative main was squab pigeon poached and roasted, served with coffee and sherry gel, roasted foie gras and young turnips. It is true of this dish as it is with the venison above that what's on the plate is technically well done but we would ask in both cases what brings the plate together to make it more than the sum of the parts? Why does it work as a plate rather than just well cooked ingredients? Did roasted foie gras really raise the calibre of the dish or was this merely another excuse to use a luxury ingredient? The roasted foie gras tasted excellent but, in tasting so good, it put the ballotine to shame while making the earlier course simultaneously redundant. We're left thinking that not only does the plate not come together in harmony but nor does the menu as a whole.
The alternative main was squab pigeon poached and roasted, served with coffee and sherry gel, roasted foie gras and young turnips. It is true of this dish as it is with the venison above that what's on the plate is technically well done but we would ask in both cases what brings the plate together to make it more than the sum of the parts? Why does it work as a plate rather than just well cooked ingredients? Did roasted foie gras really raise the calibre of the dish or was this merely another excuse to use a luxury ingredient? The roasted foie gras tasted excellent but, in tasting so good, it put the ballotine to shame while making the earlier course simultaneously redundant. We're left thinking that not only does the plate not come together in harmony but nor does the menu as a whole.
Venison, venison sausage, bitter chocolate and reduced shiraz wine
squab pigeon poached and roasted, served with coffee and sherry gel, roasted foie gras and young turnips
A selection of French and English cheese was next with a glass of port. To their credit, this is on the tasting menu with no additional supplement and our waiter was excellent in talking through the board and engaging us with the options. Nevertheless, with the savouries out they way and with little by way of highlights so far, our interest is beginning to wane.
Then to dessert, almond, chocolate and lemon souffle served with lemon grass ice cream and the alternative of apple and maple syrup cheese cake served with caramelised pecan nuts and poached apple. To be fair to The Dining Room, the desserts were probably the best of the day's courses with the cheesecake divine, so light without sacrificing flavour. But the desserts still suffered in our view from the same basic plating issues around combinations but overall, provided a small lift at least at the end of the meal.
Overall, sadly, we were disappointed with the time spent at Whatley Manor though maybe as stated, it's the January effect at work. At the hotel level, while the manor house itself is a great example of the kind, the offering, from the rooms to the service fell short. It's not quite at the price point of Le Manoir but it's not far off, yet in terms of delivering a customer experience, Le Manoir is truly in a different league.
At the food level, there was, sadly, an even bigger gap. Having sampled not only Whatley Manor's offering but both Le Manoir's and Le Champignon Sauvage's also, all within the space of a few days, we were in no doubt about the pecking order. Not only that, but one Michelin star venues like Martin Wishart and Apsleys offered us significantly more fantastic meals over the past 12 months. Clearly, Michelin see things differently and we know others who have been cheerleaders for the food at Whatley Manor but for us, on this particular night, it failed to excite.
Return to home page
Related links: Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons
Related links: Le Champignon Sauvage
At the food level, there was, sadly, an even bigger gap. Having sampled not only Whatley Manor's offering but both Le Manoir's and Le Champignon Sauvage's also, all within the space of a few days, we were in no doubt about the pecking order. Not only that, but one Michelin star venues like Martin Wishart and Apsleys offered us significantly more fantastic meals over the past 12 months. Clearly, Michelin see things differently and we know others who have been cheerleaders for the food at Whatley Manor but for us, on this particular night, it failed to excite.
Return to home page
Related links: Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons
Related links: Le Champignon Sauvage
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